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S13 SR20 cylinder #3 get to hot

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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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Default S13 SR20 cylinder #3 get to hot

Got a s13 sr20 with a t3 top mount on 14psi z32 maf recirculated greddy type-s bov greddy style intake manifold arp headstuds and better headgaket 550cc injectors high flow fuel rail 38mm wastegate and 3in downpipe apexi neo and recently tuned up car but recently I started running on 3 cylinder and it seems that cylinder it's getting way to hot and it put a big crack in the coil pack and melted another anybody got any ideas thank you
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:42 PM
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You could start by purchasing a real tune. Apexi safc anything is rubbish.
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Originally Posted by osama tim laden
because i want to **** your 16 year old ******* on top of a pile of stolen vacuum hose and fuel filters. what did you think?

dont blame shift and make this about me. this is time you could be applying online to be a bagger at publix.

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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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whats the plug look like in that cylinder?
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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Well the car is running a lil rich now cuz it needs a retune so there a lil black but there brand new Ngk iridium number 7 plugs
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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the only thing i've seen cause cop's to melt, is extreme engine temp (major overheating), or internally shorted coil shorting through its own body/insulation (usually due to a crack or defect). the spark is going to find the shortest way to a good ground, if thats through a crack in the side of the coil thats where it will jump. check for white residue on the body of the coil (indicating a shorted coil).
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 09:36 PM
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well i had splitfire coils packs on it and the top of #3 coil metlted then i put the stock coils back in and it ran fine for a few days then back to the same shit again i pulled #3 coil pack again and there was a big crack in it im trying to find wat would cause this is cuz its getting to much fuel or not enough in the #3 cyliner and causing to run hot than the others
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by RubberBerner
the only thing i've seen cause cop's to melt, is extreme engine temp (major overheating), or internally shorted coil shorting through its own body/insulation (usually due to a crack or defect). the spark is going to find the shortest way to a good ground, if thats through a crack in the side of the coil thats where it will jump. check for white residue on the body of the coil (indicating a shorted coil).
I have also seen a case where the engine harness or coilpack harness had rubbed through and grounded out. Instead of getting a signal from the ECU, it was charging the coilpack constantly. This melted the coilpack within 2-3 days.

Check the harness for exposed wires.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Epstein
I have also seen a case where the engine harness or coilpack harness had rubbed through and grounded out. Instead of getting a signal from the ECU, it was charging the coilpack constantly. This melted the coilpack within 2-3 days.

Check the harness for exposed wires.
ok ill check that but the split fire coil pack come with there own harness so i guess you can rule that i still dont get y the split fire melted im just guess a defective coil
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by crazygrk3
ok ill check that but the split fire coil pack come with there own harness so i guess you can rule that i still dont get y the split fire melted im just guess a defective coil
The split fire harness still plugs into the factory harness right? so if it's getting constant power, and constant ground from a chaffed through factory harness, like epstein said, that would definitely short a coil out pretty quick. Check continuity with power off from the ground wire on the factory harness to a good ground, move it around and see if you get anything.
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