Nissan/Infiniti Tech SR20DET? RB26DETT? VQ35DE? What's it all mean? Find out here!

Correct Timing for SR20!?

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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:04 PM
  #21 (permalink)  
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no... which is why i made my post a couple weeks back....
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #22 (permalink)  
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hah for real!

and thanks flyspyder! but i cant get the chain off of the intake cam(pass side)... like its too close to the sode of the head.. is that normal??
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Originally Posted by Shadytrixta1
lulwhat? where? custom gutted? didnt know that was a mod unless of course we're talking vtec!
Originally Posted by sean1
if it has tits or wheels its gonna cost lots of money
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mars_302
could nissan make this anymore complicated?
not as complicated as hondas lol, my 350 was cake compared to this lol
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 04:59 PM
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I may be glossing over a few hundred tips. I've done this a million times. Let see here...

You can't get the chain off of the intake sprocket without removing the cam. Yes, it's too close to the side of the head, and that's normal.

So now that everythings apart, do this: Leave the tensioner off. Spin the motor by the crank pulley, but as you approach TDC put your hand on the intake sproket to keep tension on the chain and rotate the crank slowly. You should be able to park the crank right on the second mark from the left, hear the pressures equalizing in the cylinders, and still have a tight chain across the top and down the right side.

So now you've got TDC and a tight chain down the right side. Count up the teeth on the exhaust cam according to the chart I posted. If it's off, figure out how many teeth it's off. Remove the cam, bump the chain over that many teeth. Now that's it's meshed in the right spot on the chain, adjust the intake side so that there's 20 pins/links between the dots. Now bolt the ex cam in and spin the motor twice so that it's back to TDC with a tight chain. Recount the teeth on the ex cam and adjust if necessary.

Now that the cams are set, with a tight chain across the top and down the right side, it should be easy to put the tensioner back in with that little clip fastened. Once it's bolted in, spin the crank a bit. The tension in the chain will release the clip and everything will be groovy. Now go back to TDC lobes out and do the CAS.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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Oh yeah, if you remove the spark plugs, it won't try to blast past TDC. Tip number 1001.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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^haha, did that right after i removed the valve cover, lol.

and thanks a TON, epstein! im pretty sure i got it right, and everything is back together now, but im dumb and adjusted the cas without a light.... so i think ive got to remove the cover and re-stab it once again. then ill get the timing light out tomorrow. but now, bigger problems have arose- water leaking between the block and bellhousing, and radiator smelling like gas!?!? wtf do you make of that??
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live to love the RWD.
89 seafoam coupe w/ SR20 and more- FOR SALE<- click

FAX
Originally Posted by Shadytrixta1
lulwhat? where? custom gutted? didnt know that was a mod unless of course we're talking vtec!
Originally Posted by sean1
if it has tits or wheels its gonna cost lots of money
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 05:47 AM
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water around the bellhousing is problably just a coolant line loose or leaking some where
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 07:44 AM
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i checked the heater hose lines, and im just bypssing the heater core, but theyre not leaking.. are there freeze plugs on the back side of the block, inbetween the block/bellhousing?
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live to love the RWD.
89 seafoam coupe w/ SR20 and more- FOR SALE<- click

FAX
Originally Posted by Shadytrixta1
lulwhat? where? custom gutted? didnt know that was a mod unless of course we're talking vtec!
Originally Posted by sean1
if it has tits or wheels its gonna cost lots of money
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