having minor clutch issues. need some help.
ok. well last night as i was leaving my house, i was driving down the street shifting from 1-2-3-4. but as i was lifting my foot off the pedal after shifting into 4th, i noticed that there wasnt alot of pressure on the pedal. so curious to see if i felt that right, i pushed down on the pedal and it was really really soft, and the clutch was engaging almost all the way to the bottom. so i pushed down on it a few more times but it remained the same. so today i bled the clutch because i thought it was just some air bubbles. some bubbles did come out. but the pedal only got a little stiffer. only a slight difference. so i bled it several more times, but there were no more bubbles. now the pedal is still soft, and still engages almost all the way to the bottom, and im out of ideas. so now i need some help. any answers/suggestions will help. thanks.
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KA-T.
Enthalpy Tuned.
KA-T.
Enthalpy Tuned.
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Originally Posted by osama tim laden
This things too low... raise it off the towhooks.
(O=O/-ROUGH WORLD-\O=O)

Its very difficult to bleed the clutch properly with the damper in place. Just remove it, and bend the hard line. Easy.
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Originally Posted by osama tim laden
This things too low... raise it off the towhooks.
(O=O/-ROUGH WORLD-\O=O)

Also check the threaded rod that goes from the pedal to the clutch master under the dash. You can try adjusting that too... worst case is replace the slave/master and they're pretty cheap.
Are you losing fluid at all?
Are you losing fluid at all?
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Originally Posted by osama tim laden
This things too low... raise it off the towhooks.
(O=O/-ROUGH WORLD-\O=O)

- Fill reservoir to full level with brake fluid.
- Connect a transparent vinyl tube to air bleeder valve.
- Fully depress clutch pedal several times.
- With clutch fully depressed, open bleeder valve to release air.
- Close bleeder valve when pedal reaches floor.
- Repeat steps 3 through 5 until all air is bleed from clutch system.
- Bleed air from clutch piping connector according to steps 3 through 6.
- Repeat procedure several times to ensure all air is removed from clutch system.
- If clutch is still not fully operational (offers very little resistance), proceed as follows:
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R.I.P. Tim 
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
full on track cars can take a lot more liberties with shit than a street car. bell bottom kits and crazy wheel fitment look cool sliding on a track, but when i want to drive to taco bus, im going to ruin all of that shit. so it just doesnt work for me. function over fashion.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
also, im about to blow my moderator status by deleteing all of davids posts
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250


