as I read about another thred on N/A KA with ITB's and header design. I want osme input on getting the best power from a header desing. Like longer primaries give more top end power im reading? any ideas on length,pipe size, collector outlet size ect.

I had an idea of taking an exhaust template type deal where you can weld the tubes onto the template for mounting to the head. eI think the max diamitor is like 1.5", what if you have 2" long 1.5" diamitor tubes then stepped them to like 2-2.25" tubes....would that help with anything. any know anything or have ideas on a really efficient design. Im going ot order some SS piping offline and I want to try out one best design idea If you guys help me creat it. Im going to dyno the car before headers with stock ones, then after with ebay 4-2-1 then the design u guys help think of, to see the difference.

 

anyone intrested in messing with designs heres a website to cehck out also. they supply alot of great stuff to build a exhaust system. MergeCollectors they do alot of drag applications and even have a system where you input a bunch of engine specifications and based on that will determin the best header design. you will buy all pipes prebent to the systems specs and you weld it yourself. they can weld it but its more expensive.

 

90% of the info needed is in Jason's thread you were just talking about.

 

^ agreed look in sinks thread for all your high hp na dreams

 

lol @ posting a link to burns when it was already discussed.

 

www.speedwaymotors.com

Start with one of their DIY V8 header kits, it will get you a far better deal for an assortment of mandrel bends, and two collectors.

 

if you wanna make any real power that puts you in the seat build then boost you car.
put the right suspension on your car. stop trying to ****** rig shit togather.
and if you do even make you header it's going to look like shit and be to big and not work the way you want it to. your spending all this money thats just going in the drain. if you want to make a perfect header it's going to run you over $500

 

Everybody gets so worked up over this crap and yet, still decides to post. If you don't like the topic, don't post. The "problem" will solve itself over time.

I can't stand 99.9% of the population but nothing aside from a genocidal murdering spree will make anyone go away so I just end up ignoring most everyone. You all might try that sometime instead of being like little high-school jerkoffs when you post.

 

Presidential is right...this is supposed to be a help forum. Granted he should "help us help him" but if we did take the time to educate instead of flame him these posts would stop. Or at least get fewer and farther between.

I do have a question though, why reinvent the wheel? Find a good long tube design and use it for the test you say your going to do...they are out there.

 

where is there a shop that owns a dyno closest to bradenton? anyways Im not concerned about laying down insane numbers for as cheap as I can do it. I like turbo, I will turbo this ka eventualy. N/A is on a diffrent level tho, if your going n/a for any realy kind of goal you know you will spend twice as much as a turbo set up and get half the power if not a quater. its how much you can lay down without boost tho that is cool to me. 300whp ka with no nitrous no boost, would be fucking amazing. heres another thing, what about c02 in the intake/runners oil cooler,tranny cooler. I want to see a N/A ka that has it all. theres so many things that can be added to a common ITB n/a set up that havent been implimented yet.