Do you think I can go 9's ?







You know...











If I tune the nawwwwssss timer ?

 

id hold off on that until you check your blinker fluid level or at least pick up a Gallo 12 or Gallo 24 motor

 

I had my blinker fluid topped off when I had the exhaust recirculation valve installed. They also rotated the spark plugs, and changed my valve cover bearings.

 

Yeah but unless you have the bass on the EQ all they way up, your vtec wont kick in. My vtec hits at idle. The secret to that is to put a huge front mount on and leave your piping disconnected so it gets better air flow to the fluxcapasitor.

 

Just play it safe, run the spoon engine, with the T66 turbo, with NOS and a MOTEC exhaust system, but don't forget the lengthen your injector pulse another milisecond to hit the low nines. But be careful you'll might blow the welds on the intake manifold. Hope this helped!

 

do you think if I fill my tank with pure octane booster I can get it in the low 9's? that is if I retarted my engine. what about going alcohol injection. what brand is better for HP? Bacardi? and was wondering if anyone ever tried everclear? 1 last question...I didn't have any gear oil so I filled my differential up with vegetable oil instead....is this safe? I also didn't have a gasket for it so I used elmers glue to seal it....its still drying.

 

Everclear will work ok. But i suggest the moonshine. And your diff will be ok as long as its the kind from olive garden.

 

Cool, I have no problem with wet kits, like I said they both have pros and cons- I just wanted to see more of the reasoning behind your original statement.


Fair enough, you bring up some good points. If I went with a dry setup I would only do it with a proper tune through a second map in the ECU, not by relying on the fpr boost deal. One might say a big benefit of the dry nitrous setup is simplicity, but you're trading simplicity in the nitrous setup for complexity in tuning. I think we can both agree that both setups can make power and be reliable if setup properly using good parts, and at that point it's a matter of personal preference. Perhaps in the context of this thread a wet kit is better for simply "slapping it onto" a stock KA with no other changes like fuel injectors or tuning the ECU.

 

Indeed, the proper way to do a dry setup would be tuning in the ecu, but again, you've got to keep bottle pressure dead on to match your tune, which is a slight benefit to the bleeding pressure to the FPR side of things, so long as you've got a good enough injector that your pressure needed doesnt cause them to go static due to the pressure needed.

One of the most important things is an RPM switch, that is about THE most imporant part in not having a nitrous backfire, just like anything else, if you do things wrong it will go bad, nitrous gets a bad rep cause its cheap for ree ree's to get their hands on only some of the pieces, halfass things, then blame it all on the NAWWWSSSS.

A wet kit eliminates a lot of the troubles on the engine side of things, and like I said, an awesome benefit is being able to affordably build a setup that strictly uses race gas for the spray side of things, which is what my setup will progress to. I'm aiming for a GT2871R with a 100-150 HP shot, with my plans, everything eventually will fit like stock, look nearly stock, yet be capable of low 11, high 10 sec passes at the track, with nice daily drivability.