Nissan/Infiniti Tech SR20DET? RB26DETT? VQ35DE? What's it all mean? Find out here!

how much nitrous on stock ka24de?

Thread Tools
 
Old Dec 3, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #11 (permalink)  
-weekendwarrior-'s Avatar
Army Infantry
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
Default

if i go turbo i'll probably go rb25 and leave it fairly stock. just a clutch and aftermarket intake mani before i throw it in. stock intakes are ugly
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2008 | 09:02 PM
  #12 (permalink)  
nisson93's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 0
Default

i ran a 100 for six bottles and then swaped a new motor the old one was still running good with 120k on it
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #13 (permalink)  
drop_top_240's Avatar
HookSlidinTractionBreaker
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Default

my buddy bought a car that had a kit on it 75 shot wet. just a fogger just before the t/b, wot switch on an auto car . . blew the trans before the motor went. the trans was rebuilt too. heavy ass converter, but we put the motor in another car with no bottle just a header and intake and it screams man.. some ka's will take alot of abuse, some arent so lucky.

do a compresion and leak down test and see what the results are. then make your decision. but no more then 75 on a stock motor and definelty dont use a dry kit. go with the wet. less of a chance of seriously bad detonation and u just need a 255 to upgrade the fuel system
__________________
Drop_Top_240


Fully built vert with built ka-t w/ gt28rs and hopefully nistune

s13 coupe daily drifter

"Don't touch ANYTHING!!"
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 05:47 AM
  #14 (permalink)  
Epstein's Avatar
Retired
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,095
Likes: 0
Default

I don't see any problem running a 100 shot on a stock motor if properly setup. You probably want to make sure that your fuel pump will support the extra 100hp or so. It's also adviseable to retard the timing appropriately if you're going to be spraying that day/night. I don't know the number offhand but there's a recommended number of degrees per shot size that you should retard. Go look that up. Subtract that from your base timing by rotating the distributer.
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 04:57 PM
  #15 (permalink)  
Jordan Y.'s Avatar
15 seconds EXHILARATION
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,801
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by drop_top_240
definelty dont use a dry kit. go with the wet. less of a chance of seriously bad detonation and u just need a 255 to upgrade the fuel system
Why the hate on the dry kits? I see this all the time on import boards, and I also used to see wet vs. dry as good vs. bad, but a lot of domestic guys seem to run them with good results and now I see it as a matter of pros and cons for each. Wet kit fuel connections can leak, the fuel solenoid can fail screwing up your AFR- when a dry kit fails, you're running slightly less timing and a richer AFR in your tune, when a wet kit fails you could be running pure fuel and bog out (I saw a pinks episode where a guy lost the semifinals this way), or you could be running pure nitrous and blow up. Wet kits have a much higher chance of nitrous backfires, wet kits require playing with jets and balancing fuel and nitrous through crude means outside your fancy EFI system.

Just a list of potential cons to a wet kit- like I said, there are pros and cons to both, but I don't think you can make a blanket statement "dry is bad wet is good".
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 07:51 PM
  #16 (permalink)  
drop_top_240's Avatar
HookSlidinTractionBreaker
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Default

im sorry i wasnt trying to put it in a dry bad wet good way (should of used the "recomed" word) im not a nitrous expert .. the drag guys at my shops swear by wet kits (there running 350 2stage kits, understandably wet) and they told me the detonation thing. the one guy had a dry kit and i was interested in it but he told me that with a fuel injection system that a wet kit would be better because you just need an upgraded pump maybe a fpr and you wouldent really have to tune it just retard the timing if your gona spray. . . with a v8 and a carb a small dry kit would work because you run your carb richer and you have the right mix but with any n2o system it needs to be done right because when any part fails while spraying things can go bad quickly
__________________
Drop_Top_240


Fully built vert with built ka-t w/ gt28rs and hopefully nistune

s13 coupe daily drifter

"Don't touch ANYTHING!!"
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 07:53 PM
  #17 (permalink)  
Kung.'s Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,854
Likes: 0
Default

two of the big bottles should be fine.
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 08:09 PM
  #18 (permalink)  
Superluminal's Avatar
The Cyber Brain
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by hillbillydrifter
I say you run a 1000 shot and be the first man to put a piston on the moon.
That was pretty funny.
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 08:21 PM
  #19 (permalink)  
Z28ricer's Avatar
Doesnt see what you did
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Jordan Y.
Why the hate on the dry kits? I see this all the time on import boards, and I also used to see wet vs. dry as good vs. bad, but a lot of domestic guys seem to run them with good results and now I see it as a matter of pros and cons for each. Wet kit fuel connections can leak, the fuel solenoid can fail screwing up your AFR- when a dry kit fails, you're running slightly less timing and a richer AFR in your tune, when a wet kit fails you could be running pure fuel and bog out (I saw a pinks episode where a guy lost the semifinals this way), or you could be running pure nitrous and blow up. Wet kits have a much higher chance of nitrous backfires, wet kits require playing with jets and balancing fuel and nitrous through crude means outside your fancy EFI system.

Just a list of potential cons to a wet kit- like I said, there are pros and cons to both, but I don't think you can make a blanket statement "dry is bad wet is good".

A lot of your information only applies if you are running an aftermarket ecu for the fuel side of things. The majority of dry systems have nothing to do with your "fancy" efi system, and also are "crude"

Typical dry kit uses nitrous pressure bled to the FPR to increase the fuel pressure, you can end up not having the fuel enrichment just the same, you have to tune it just the same, except you are using jets bleeding off some of the nitrous pressure to adjust your fuel.

A nitrous backfire is typically something you've got because you screwed up, as with anything else, do it right, you wont have a fuckup.

Keys to making it work:

1. Have a fuel pressure safety switch
2. Have enough fuel pump for the job
3. Use an RPM switch
4. Dont get too brave
5. Use quality filters
6. Dont use cheap shit

One of the benefits to a wet setup is that you can run a small dedicated fuel cell and pump for your nitrous system, this allows you to not only use race gas for your nitrous setup, but you can also tune the kit using your fuel pressure, instead of strictly by the jets.
__________________
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
full on track cars can take a lot more liberties with shit than a street car. bell bottom kits and crazy wheel fitment look cool sliding on a track, but when i want to drive to taco bus, im going to ruin all of that shit. so it just doesnt work for me. function over fashion.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
also, im about to blow my moderator status by deleteing all of davids posts
R.I.P. Tim

SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.

SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2008 | 10:01 PM
  #20 (permalink)  
nismokid's Avatar
The New Jessie James
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 0
Default

Nitrous on a 240...Why??
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:02 AM.