important question
also, on a bit of a side thought, assuming you have the ability to tune on the fly for it or something like that, if removing that vacuum line ups the pressure, and the walboro would up the pressure even more, I'm assuming that would force more fuel out of the injectors. I've got no doubt that, that wouldn't be good for them, but still, it would get more fuel in there... I'm wondering how much more fuel. If it would be enough, that might be a budget way to upgrade your injectors for a low boost build, instead of having to swap them out for SRs or something, ya know...
just a thought...
oh i see what your saying about the vacuum line, well when i got they car there was no vacuum line there so i ran it my self to that nipple, its a brand new hose, if all of the emission stuff wasnt properly deleted would i cuase a huge vaccume leak and not cuase it to start? and i did change the fuel pump yesterday and now its like every other stroke it fires, but now its kinda of back firing i will have to check the timming one more time for sure i know that
also, on a bit of a side thought, assuming you have the ability to tune on the fly for it or something like that, if removing that vacuum line ups the pressure, and the walboro would up the pressure even more, I'm assuming that would force more fuel out of the injectors. I've got no doubt that, that wouldn't be good for them, but still, it would get more fuel in there... I'm wondering how much more fuel. If it would be enough, that might be a budget way to upgrade your injectors for a low boost build, instead of having to swap them out for SRs or something, ya know...
just a thought...
just a thought...
..... sr injectors go for under $100, if you are on that much of a budget you shouldn't be turboing a ka........ end of story.
__________________
RIP my very best friend. DJ aka djzstang1 you will be missed dearly. I love you bro.

1995 240sx se
1992 240sx
1990 240sx se
1991 240sx hicas sr20det MDX
1991 240sx project coupe
1990 240sx drift beater hatch
1993 240sx sr20det
RIP my very best friend. DJ aka djzstang1 you will be missed dearly. I love you bro.

1995 240sx se
1992 240sx
1990 240sx se
1991 240sx hicas sr20det MDX
1991 240sx project coupe
1990 240sx drift beater hatch
1993 240sx sr20det
I have talked to the engineers of the walboro pump for the 255. They said that that pump would overdrive the stock FPR and cause to much fuel to return to the fuel tank not only overdriving a 255 pump and making it hot but also making your car run rich.
thats odd bc out of the 100+ cars i have installed walbros i have never run into that issue.
and nora, sure you can up your fuel pressure to get more fuel... but at the expense of your injectors over driving and dying. why do you suppose the FMU went out of style like heroin and david lee roth?
the proper way to adjust fuel is through duty cycle. forcing more fuel through is not good. as far as vacuum, the reason for it is that under negative load (vacuum) the fuel pressure is lower. under WOT, the fuel pressure raises. additionally, under boost, the fuel pressure rises 1psi per lb of boost. FMU's totally negate this and burn up injectors.
for example:
45 psi fuel pressure static (no vacuum/no boost)
on factory regulator:
45psi + 15psi boost = 60psi of fuel pressure... cool, no biggie
on just an 8:1 FMU (considered low ratio):
45psi + 15psi boost = 165psi of fuel pressure [45 + (15x8 )]
and there are FMU's that go as high as 14:1!! scary stuff!! this is how turbo kits used to come in the late 90's with an additional fuel pump inline. no ecu controls, no tuning... just rediculous fuel pressure.
but back to original, the jump from 38psi to 45psi at idle will richen the setup, but not to the point that you would have some crazy rich condition. especially if your pressure is beind raised via a vacuum leak. in fact, the vac leak will cause more of a lean condition than the 7psi increase in fuel pressure will cause a rich condition.. if that makes any sense.
and nora, sure you can up your fuel pressure to get more fuel... but at the expense of your injectors over driving and dying. why do you suppose the FMU went out of style like heroin and david lee roth?
the proper way to adjust fuel is through duty cycle. forcing more fuel through is not good. as far as vacuum, the reason for it is that under negative load (vacuum) the fuel pressure is lower. under WOT, the fuel pressure raises. additionally, under boost, the fuel pressure rises 1psi per lb of boost. FMU's totally negate this and burn up injectors.
for example:
45 psi fuel pressure static (no vacuum/no boost)
on factory regulator:
45psi + 15psi boost = 60psi of fuel pressure... cool, no biggie
on just an 8:1 FMU (considered low ratio):
45psi + 15psi boost = 165psi of fuel pressure [45 + (15x8 )]
and there are FMU's that go as high as 14:1!! scary stuff!! this is how turbo kits used to come in the late 90's with an additional fuel pump inline. no ecu controls, no tuning... just rediculous fuel pressure.
but back to original, the jump from 38psi to 45psi at idle will richen the setup, but not to the point that you would have some crazy rich condition. especially if your pressure is beind raised via a vacuum leak. in fact, the vac leak will cause more of a lean condition than the 7psi increase in fuel pressure will cause a rich condition.. if that makes any sense.
__________________
RIP Tim. i miss you, buddy
RIP Tim. i miss you, buddy
thats odd bc out of the 100+ cars i have installed walbros i have never run into that issue.
and nora, sure you can up your fuel pressure to get more fuel... but at the expense of your injectors over driving and dying. why do you suppose the FMU went out of style like heroin and david lee roth?
the proper way to adjust fuel is through duty cycle. forcing more fuel through is not good. as far as vacuum, the reason for it is that under negative load (vacuum) the fuel pressure is lower. under WOT, the fuel pressure raises. additionally, under boost, the fuel pressure rises 1psi per lb of boost. FMU's totally negate this and burn up injectors.
for example:
45 psi fuel pressure static (no vacuum/no boost)
on factory regulator:
45psi + 15psi boost = 60psi of fuel pressure... cool, no biggie
on just an 8:1 FMU (considered low ratio):
45psi + 15psi boost = 165psi of fuel pressure [45 + (15x8 )]
and there are FMU's that go as high as 14:1!! scary stuff!! this is how turbo kits used to come in the late 90's with an additional fuel pump inline. no ecu controls, no tuning... just rediculous fuel pressure.
but back to original, the jump from 38psi to 45psi at idle will richen the setup, but not to the point that you would have some crazy rich condition. especially if your pressure is beind raised via a vacuum leak. in fact, the vac leak will cause more of a lean condition than the 7psi increase in fuel pressure will cause a rich condition.. if that makes any sense.
and nora, sure you can up your fuel pressure to get more fuel... but at the expense of your injectors over driving and dying. why do you suppose the FMU went out of style like heroin and david lee roth?
the proper way to adjust fuel is through duty cycle. forcing more fuel through is not good. as far as vacuum, the reason for it is that under negative load (vacuum) the fuel pressure is lower. under WOT, the fuel pressure raises. additionally, under boost, the fuel pressure rises 1psi per lb of boost. FMU's totally negate this and burn up injectors.
for example:
45 psi fuel pressure static (no vacuum/no boost)
on factory regulator:
45psi + 15psi boost = 60psi of fuel pressure... cool, no biggie
on just an 8:1 FMU (considered low ratio):
45psi + 15psi boost = 165psi of fuel pressure [45 + (15x8 )]
and there are FMU's that go as high as 14:1!! scary stuff!! this is how turbo kits used to come in the late 90's with an additional fuel pump inline. no ecu controls, no tuning... just rediculous fuel pressure.
but back to original, the jump from 38psi to 45psi at idle will richen the setup, but not to the point that you would have some crazy rich condition. especially if your pressure is beind raised via a vacuum leak. in fact, the vac leak will cause more of a lean condition than the 7psi increase in fuel pressure will cause a rich condition.. if that makes any sense.

no wonder all of the "old school" guys say turboing a car is so dangerous and costly and breaks shit. I couldn't imagine ever thinking that was really a good idea. 165+ psi. Damn. my idea was more like adding another 10-20, not 110 to 120. shit.
To the OP. Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner/starter fluid around your engine bay to try to find any vacuum leaks?
Also, double check your timing. You might have it right, but 180 off.
check for leaks, and make sure things are plugged up nice and time. The MAF plug tends to get loose. That might cause this problem.... maybe...
You said it was firing every other time? as in enough to check the motor running? or only if the starter is turning?
While you're at it, try to go through the process of getting the codes off of the ECU. It might have something of value stored in there...
Once you've done all of that. and we still can't figure anything out.
I say pull your distributor and reset your timing the right way, just to make sure that isn't the problem.
nope i have not tired yet to spray carb cleaner over the vacuum lines that will be next! my bad, its seems like the motor is firing every other cylder ever since i changed the fuel pump, yeah i am going to the check the timming one more time, and yes i have rechecked the ecu for anything and nothin is saved and its off of another 240 that ran


