oASHo

also do an injector test. with the car running, unplug one injector plug at a time, and go through all 4. only unplug one at a time though, and while you do that, if the car seems to choke more when you unplug one, then that injector is good, if it stays the same, that injector is bad.

ALLEN P.

ok ill give it a shot after work

ALLEN P.

thanks ill try both and let you know

norachelhere

I'm thinking vacuum leak...
check both your injectors and your coilpacks, just to rule them out.
Then start the process of looking for that vacuum leak...

ALLEN P.

ok its not a misfire or the injectors the idle was worse when i pulled each coil pack and when i pulled the first 3 injectors(one at a time) it died but the forth one the idle became worse but the car did not die. im not thinking its a misfire or injectors. i looked for vacum leaks and listened and i couldnt find a thing i ran thru all my lines.

norachelhere

so, number 1, 2, and 3 injectors all killed the motor when you unplugged them, but number 4 didn't. Number 4 just made the idle a little worse? What ever the problem is, it is within number four... Maybe a bad injector, as in it isn't spraying properly, or stuck open or partially closed or something....
Know anyone that would let you borrow an injector? That might help to narrow the problem down...

Also, when we the last time you did a compression check?
Might want to do that, just to rule out the possibility of bad rings... I hope that isn't the case, but you never know...

Jordan T

timing or plugs

ALLEN P.

yea im thinking the 4th injector may be a problem and im runnin open down pipe

Durdan

i would like to know what book you read from to get these diagnosis ideas...


first things first.

verify that each coilpack is working. just unplugging each one while running doesnt denote a coil problem, same goes for injectors. that only narrows down the cylinder.

there are a few ways to check coils easily. you could either remove all coil packs, throw some plugs into them and have someone crank the motor over to ensure each one is firing (and firing in order)

*note - try to use seperate plugs for the above option. leave your plugs in the motor. this is A) to cancel out that perhaps you have a bad plug and B) to not start a fire due to raw fuel being blown up through an open plug hole. sure, you can unplug the injectors, but on an S14 SR, that not a super simple task sometimes. and you want the CAS plugged in so that everyhting works as it should

you could also try playing musical coils once you think you have narrowed it down to a single cylinder. think #4's misfiring? move it to #3 and see if the problem follows the part. if not, then move along to somehting else


i would also check to make sure all injectors are firing properly. put motor at TDC for combustion (cam lobes facing out), remove CAS, UNPLUG COIL PACK HARNESS!!!, key on, and hand spin the CAS. do the injectors all click? if not, try grabbing a couple lengths of wire, attach to a spare injector plug from a KA, and lightly and quickly arc the wires to the positve and neg terminals of your battery. does it click now? if it doesnt, try tapping it with an extension to free it up.

i cant tell you how many times ive had stuck injectors damn near ruin my day.

next, once you have established that are getting adequate fuel and spark, pull the plugs. how do they look? are all tan and one is super white? how about super black? whats the gap like? are they shit-used plugs from a time long forgotten? are they those awesome HKS plugs you kept from your buddy's SR swap he got 4 yrs ago? throw some BKR6E's in there gapped to 0.028. store doesnt have them? go ahead and use BKR6E-11. sure, theyre gapped at 044 right out of the box and the electrode bends more when gapped to 028, but who cares. your car needs some plugs!

still not running correctly? check all your intercooler couplers. vacuum leaks (between throttle body and head) cause a lean issue, not rich. so if its running stupid rich, make sure all your charge piping is hooked up properly. make sure there are no tears, loose clamps, etc. you can even pull off the MAF, get a 2.75" PVC pipe and cap, throw a valve stem in it and pressurize your piping with an air hose(try to limit it to 10-15psi). grab a bottle of your favorite soapy water and get to squirtin'! any air leak this side of the mississippi will start bubbling like my butt after a 12hr binge fest at tijuana flats.

got everything tight? good fuel? good spark? new plugs? still runs like shit?

make sure your ECU plug is tightened down all the way
make sure your ECU doest stink as bad as your finger would if you never washed it since age 15

if it still doesnt work after all this.










compression test

then sell it. or just send it over to me and ill fix it.

norachelhere

^ asshat... so how does doing what we have all said in order to narrow down the cylinder not help any?
I don't know about you, but I would like to narrow it down to a known location before troubleshooting an entire engine...
Maybe I missed the part that we knew for a fact that it was running lean. All we knew was that there was fuel. Doesn't necessarily mean it is running rich. Seems like you are assuming too much instead of narrowing it down lk;fjklfdslj;kfdsajksfdljkgjl;kglk;sglkh;agdsi;oeg rnlarwuiponvarew jkravew;ouiaw;kljnsd bjklua;wbjrefj a (sorry carl pissed me off.... anyway) one step at a time to a known problem...
whatever
hopefully the OP gets so much enlightenment from your post that he won't ever have anymore engine problems.