Datsun Dreaming
well laid down some primer and started working on the wet sand and soon to paint pearl white to match the s14.
picked up a oem zenki lip today too which will be going under the knife via my plastic welder for some corrections.
never claimed i was a body guy but hey gotta learn sometime.


as for the s13 its parked away in the garage where it will remain, some time ago my front main seal started leaking which turned out to be a very deep groove cut in the front crank pulley from the old engine. all parts being replaced. thanks Joe (asia)
thinking of pulling off the moroso oil pan to give it a better polish since the only thing on it is dust
picked up a oem zenki lip today too which will be going under the knife via my plastic welder for some corrections.
never claimed i was a body guy but hey gotta learn sometime.


as for the s13 its parked away in the garage where it will remain, some time ago my front main seal started leaking which turned out to be a very deep groove cut in the front crank pulley from the old engine. all parts being replaced. thanks Joe (asia)
thinking of pulling off the moroso oil pan to give it a better polish since the only thing on it is dust
Dan, I remember you telling me you didn't want to go any lower, because you didn't want to mess up the geometry of the suspension.
What if there was a product that could be bought for not much money that would allow you to be completely and totally slammed, while still maintaing proper suspension geometry?
I only ask because I already know about one thing, and just learned about another thing you can buy but is very rare.
I know PSM ( parts shop max ) is designing their own part that takes place of subframe bushings and collars and is one piece, that raises the subframe closer to the body, allowing you to go lower while maintaing the same basic geometry.
I also recently learned that you can buy rear knuckles that have different mounting points for the suspension arms that do the same thing, but I have also heard that these are super rare, and can be quite expensive.
What if there was a product that could be bought for not much money that would allow you to be completely and totally slammed, while still maintaing proper suspension geometry?
I only ask because I already know about one thing, and just learned about another thing you can buy but is very rare.
I know PSM ( parts shop max ) is designing their own part that takes place of subframe bushings and collars and is one piece, that raises the subframe closer to the body, allowing you to go lower while maintaing the same basic geometry.
I also recently learned that you can buy rear knuckles that have different mounting points for the suspension arms that do the same thing, but I have also heard that these are super rare, and can be quite expensive.
Technically to get the most out of your suspension going that low dosnt help, but I was comfortable with how the car drove so I didnt care. Mostly I would say the biggest help in going low beside getting adjustable arms is fighting suspension bind/stiction. I went the cheap route and did ES bushings and grease fittings on the uprights and RLCA, or you can spend a hella lot of money and go all speherical. Either way that also helps when your that low to allow the suspension to move completly through its motion. But as far as I've read the 240's 5 link set up can go only so low before the arms fight themselves because of their unequal length. But thats for all out maximum road race set up which my car isnt. If you look at most guys that do road racing with 240s their cars are about an 1 1/2 inchs higher than mine in the picture.
Anyways I've never had any problems other than rubbing fenders. Though I did raise the car up a little since those pictures.
Oh, and the only thing about your car I would change in that picture is Navan front bumper, and different grill.
Oh, and different wheels, but I think pretty much every knows I have never liked FN's.
Although I think I remember you saying you got them for a good price or something.
Oh, and different wheels, but I think pretty much every knows I have never liked FN's.
FN's aren't the most amazing wheels and lots of people have them. But I do like them they are lighter most other wheels and yes I did get them for an awesome price and now I have the 9+12s. So I have 8",9",10" and tire size goes like this, 8"-235, 9"-255, 10"-255. And they are getting some sweet paint soon.
those also werent that great of an offset.
i think massaging a little with a hammer is fine, your rack should bind before you would need tubs.
like dudes running modified spindles for crazy angle still arent running tubs.
i mean, do what you want, but when i see tubs, i think of that kid on mad tv "look what i can do"
i think massaging a little with a hammer is fine, your rack should bind before you would need tubs.
like dudes running modified spindles for crazy angle still arent running tubs.
i mean, do what you want, but when i see tubs, i think of that kid on mad tv "look what i can do"
Car looks sick. I want your rears... lol You wouldn't happen to have a fender roller by any chance would you?
True, but ive been running a 15 mil spacer for about 6 months now and even though its still not that low it was about pretty close to the edge of the fender. The front of my car is getting cut up and reworked anyways, I have the sheet metal so if Im doing all this work might as well instead of bashing it with a hammer. I also have the 9's now and with 255 RT615's which I've yet to run up front.
Yes I have a fender roller.
Yes I have a fender roller.
any body eles have this problem??
ok only when the motor/trans is cold the gears feel notcie. like the gear oil is so thick that it does not lube the gears right away. but as soon as i drive down the road a few miles it stops and i can shift smooth. or i can just start the car and let it idill for 5 min or so. same prob with friends s14..
ok only when the motor/trans is cold the gears feel notcie. like the gear oil is so thick that it does not lube the gears right away. but as soon as i drive down the road a few miles it stops and i can shift smooth. or i can just start the car and let it idill for 5 min or so. same prob with friends s14..
any body eles have this problem??
ok only when the motor/trans is cold the gears feel notcie. like the gear oil is so thick that it does not lube the gears right away. but as soon as i drive down the road a few miles it stops and i can shift smooth. or i can just start the car and let it idill for 5 min or so. same prob with friends s14..
ok only when the motor/trans is cold the gears feel notcie. like the gear oil is so thick that it does not lube the gears right away. but as soon as i drive down the road a few miles it stops and i can shift smooth. or i can just start the car and let it idill for 5 min or so. same prob with friends s14..





