Nissan/Infiniti Tech SR20DET? RB26DETT? VQ35DE? What's it all mean? Find out here!

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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 06:01 PM
  #6031 (permalink)  
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Yea stock geared VLSD which is pretty worn out. After I finish my motor Im going to pick up a 4.36 again and a S15 Helical.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 06:42 PM
  #6032 (permalink)  
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I want to put an S15 rear subframe into S13.

I forget who it is, but someone sells offset bushings to fit 15 subframe into 13.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 06:48 PM
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Im not using the crank angle sensor. Runs fine just throws a CEL.
The only thing you'll notice is your going to have cold start problems from the swap and that CEL.

Everything else is cool.

Oh yea no speed limiter.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:05 PM
  #6034 (permalink)  
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S14 subframe is a direct fit and according to Epstein it helps to reduce toe in under compression which helps gain traction when exiting corners, but I'm betting that you need all the correct adjustable arms/ bearings or bushings to really benifit from that. I'd say stick the the S13 subframe, get all the neat arms and bushings, Z32 uprights and an S15 helical and rock out. Then if you come across an S14 or S15 subframe later on buy it and swap over everything since it all the arms are compatible with each chassis.

You dont really have to worry about upgrading the subframe unless your putting down some serious power and have traction problems in the first three gears on track.
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #6035 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by longfellow2
S14 subframe is a direct fit and according to Epstein it helps to reduce toe in under compression which helps gain traction when exiting corners, but I'm betting that you need all the correct adjustable arms/ bearings or bushings to really benifit from that. I'd say stick the the S13 subframe, get all the neat arms and bushings, Z32 uprights and an S15 helical and rock out. Then if you come across an S14 or S15 subframe later on buy it and swap over everything since it all the arms are compatible with each chassis.

You dont really have to worry about upgrading the subframe unless your putting down some serious power and have traction problems in the first three gears on track.

I meant if I was in your shoes, but in S13. You seem to be going for all out grip before even touching power. Which is cool. I just kinda prefer S13 over S14 for some reason. Even though they are older, and usually junk.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:34 PM
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I am indeed. I like both chassis but I think I favor my S14 over my old S13s. But I dont think its necessary even on an S13, if anything it would be a very last on the list type thing. From what I've read there isnt much conclusive evidence that it really makes a big enough difference to matter in most cases.

Theres alot of neat tricks that I still want to do that would be more benificial for any S chassis, like foaming the front and rear subframes, along with floor pan gusseting.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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I wish someone made some of those bars like the GT-Spec ones for S-chassis.

They make them for all kinds of Honda's, Subies, and Evos, but I'm pretty sure they don't make 'em for S-chassis.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:37 PM
  #6038 (permalink)  
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the rear subframe brace?
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Originally Posted by Epstein
Either way you're required to do it Tampa style. $1500 kit still gets $4.99 rattle can paint job. Bonus points if you use 2 different colors of gray.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:42 PM
  #6039 (permalink)  
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you know what i like doing?

not swapping subframes.
fuck that shit.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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lol!


repped chome
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