I was going to go with less camber say around -1.75 to -2* up front, and since I dont run super stiff springs, I figure that would be the best way to maximize front grip and use as much of the tire as possible while also keeping tire wear to a minimum. The 235's did really well up front during the Fullauto event and I like the faster steering. Rear I was sorta worried about being able to put the power down in some of the tight corners, but I dont think I'll have too much of an issue with it. I also think the lighter tire/wheel combo will help over all balance a little as well.

The only reason I would go with 235's in the rear is at my current height the 255's dont fit right now and I'm not sure I can make it with out a slight pull which I wont do. I'm going to finish rolling the fenders and do a string alignment, but I think I'll still have to much camber for what I want. But if I can get away with -2* in the rear I'll be happy, if I can get it down to -1.5-1.75 it would be perfect.

Do you happen to remember what the best length for the rear traction rods is? I'm going to get all that squared away this weekend.

 

If you're lengthening your ruca to run 1.75-2.00*, you'll need a traction rod about 8.50" long. FWIW, I ran 2.25* front and 1.75* rear on the S14, and that seemed to work pretty well. It could have used a bit more camber in the front, but I didn't want to screw up the way it daily'd just to squeeze a tiny bit more front grip. 0 toe up front and about 1/8" total toe-in rear made the car fun, but it did follow road grooves a tiny bit. 7.5* caster is great.

 

I've been running -2.5* camber up front for the last 2 years or so and the front of the car hunts and its annoying. I think my front caster is too much so I'm going to dial that backa bit to around 7.25-7.5. I got the SPL eccentric lock out things too so no more camber bolts to mess with so hopefully it might make doing a string alignment easier since I dont have to worry about the camber bolts screwing stuff up. I think the new set up will be a bit more nimble in tighter corners and about the same everywhere else.

 

I'm going to string up the Z one of these days. Maybe run the bumpsteer plots on it as well. I can't believe that the bumpsteer info isn't out there already.

 

1qt of gear oil for an R35 GTR is 53$. The cost to replace the brakes on a GTR is over $5k.

If I ever won a GTR in a lottery or something I'd instantly sell it and buy a 370z.

 

a replacement carbon fiber undertray that goes in the back and covers the exhaust is $4k
basically everything is expensive for it.

 

Fixed

 

Haha maybe. I know the Forge Motorsports Z34 is insanely fast. I'd do something more along the lines of the Robispec Z34 but with more street manors.

 

made a new core support, its very minimal but its better than the rust pos that was in there before.

 

That was my car, that was a couple days before the car got broken into. I saw your car sitting there, and was wondering where you were.

I got a flat while driving on 19, and had no spare, so I had to leave it on jack stands while I got a new tire put on.