Datsun Dreaming
Routing the 1" hose for the BOV was a total pain in the ass. I had a lot less room than I thought. But I ended up doing it the way I wanted and its awesome. You cant see it so that makes me happy.
Also with the bumper on you cant see the intercooler so thats even more awesome.
And since its a hot topic, I need to find about 15 clamps for the misc shit around the intake manifold. Probably get to that tomorrow.
Also with the bumper on you cant see the intercooler so thats even more awesome.
And since its a hot topic, I need to find about 15 clamps for the misc shit around the intake manifold. Probably get to that tomorrow.
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Team White Car 2010
Team White Car 2010
Gave it a quick powerwash at the car wash place and threw some tire shine on it. Got mowed down cruising by a zenki with a guy in it throwing thumbs up and honking his horn LOL.
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damn i guess i will rock out this until i hit something just right and my fan eats it lol that should make me get the right one pretty fast
S14 KA shrouds are 1 piece. I think they are a little wider than S13 radiators as well or atleast mine was. I had an S13 radiator in my car with my KA and it took some trial/error before I got it to fit well.
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Team White Car 2010
Team White Car 2010
Washed my car tonight!
I need some new side door glass. Those "streaks" I have are actually scratches. Doh.
About the hose clamps...
Like Tim said, the "wire band with bolt" type are the best. You can get a lot more tension on those compared to regular worm-drive hose clamps. Use these on everything that sees pressure, between about 0.75" to 1.75" outside diameter, especially the coolant lines under the intake manifold. They can see up to 20psi and you definitely don't want to have to redo those! Everytime I go to the junkyard, I swipe a half dozen of these.
For smaller hoses that are under 3/4" and see 20psi or less, the spring clamp type (the kind you undo with pliers) are good here. This includes the small coolant lines running to your IACV and throttle body. You can also use them on air lines / boost ports / wastegate signals, etc. In addition, you can use them on bigger diameter hoses that don't see much or any pressure, like the valve cover ports.
For smaller hoses that see more than 20psi, use the solid band type clamp that has a screw/bolt tightening mechanism. This is NOT a worm drive. Specifically, I'm calling out fuel lines, as they can see 65+psi easily on a boosted car.
This leaves large diameter pipes. For pressurized connections, I like worm-drive clamps made by ABA. The bands are thick stainless (304 or 316), the gear slots are pressed instead of cut through, and they're incredibly beefy. They're a lot cheaper than t-bolts, and a lot stronger than normal (Ideal, Breeze, etc) worm drive clamps. I'm talking about intercooler pipes, here.
For unpressurized connections of this size, normal, cheapy, Home Depot Racing worm drives will do here. Specifically, I've got BOV recirc and intake/inlet piping in mind.
I need some new side door glass. Those "streaks" I have are actually scratches. Doh.
About the hose clamps...
Like Tim said, the "wire band with bolt" type are the best. You can get a lot more tension on those compared to regular worm-drive hose clamps. Use these on everything that sees pressure, between about 0.75" to 1.75" outside diameter, especially the coolant lines under the intake manifold. They can see up to 20psi and you definitely don't want to have to redo those! Everytime I go to the junkyard, I swipe a half dozen of these.
For smaller hoses that are under 3/4" and see 20psi or less, the spring clamp type (the kind you undo with pliers) are good here. This includes the small coolant lines running to your IACV and throttle body. You can also use them on air lines / boost ports / wastegate signals, etc. In addition, you can use them on bigger diameter hoses that don't see much or any pressure, like the valve cover ports.
For smaller hoses that see more than 20psi, use the solid band type clamp that has a screw/bolt tightening mechanism. This is NOT a worm drive. Specifically, I'm calling out fuel lines, as they can see 65+psi easily on a boosted car.
This leaves large diameter pipes. For pressurized connections, I like worm-drive clamps made by ABA. The bands are thick stainless (304 or 316), the gear slots are pressed instead of cut through, and they're incredibly beefy. They're a lot cheaper than t-bolts, and a lot stronger than normal (Ideal, Breeze, etc) worm drive clamps. I'm talking about intercooler pipes, here.
For unpressurized connections of this size, normal, cheapy, Home Depot Racing worm drives will do here. Specifically, I've got BOV recirc and intake/inlet piping in mind.
My buddy took a rolling shot of my car, god damn I love my car.
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^haha, thats sick. it reminds me of my white car. what year is it?
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live to love the RWD.
89 seafoam coupe w/ SR20 and more- FOR SALE<- click
FAX
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live to love the RWD.
89 seafoam coupe w/ SR20 and more- FOR SALE<- click
FAX

I uhh..
Acquired the "red dragon"
Apparently I somehow missed the memo about get your S13 running, before acquiring its twin, oh well.
Oh and just about got a complete SR drivetrain rounded up for it heh go figure.
Acquired the "red dragon"
Apparently I somehow missed the memo about get your S13 running, before acquiring its twin, oh well.
Oh and just about got a complete SR drivetrain rounded up for it heh go figure.





