air to water is shit for daily. but super efficient for short burst stuff, and use ice.

v-mount to me is a waste. it works, but 99 out of 100 setups have a hacked up car and you have to run a vented hood (if you're into that).

shorter ic piping is not better response. the differences are negligible really, unless you're comparing piping lengths from 240 v-mount to a fmic kit on a suby (which has like 20 feet of ic piping)

powdercoating can reduce efficiency, since it is a thicker base, and can clog fins. rattle can isnt much better but you'd really have to stop and spray on one spot for it to clog up a fin. rattle can usually looks like charred asshole though.

the proper process to get a "stealthy" black IC is to have it anodized. anodizing is a process done to the metal, not a coating, so the metal retains its properties for the most part.

and IMO, in final, just get a FMIC. if you wanna be stealthy, get upgraded SMIC (ARC, mk4 supra), or use black mesh to kinda hide it. 6 billion SR owners who use FMICs can't be wrong lol (or can they?)

if you're overheating, you're either not using the stock clutch fan and shroud, or you need to step up to a koyo.

 

I run a APEXi Delta Fin front mount intercooler and really like it. The staggered fins are suppose to provide more cooling than non-staggered. But, I don't think Apexi make them anymore.

 

I got pwoned the term I was thinking of was anodized thanks dan

importluv is right

dave is out.

 

what's wrong with a VERY THIN coating of acrylic paint? Its not gonna be literately coated. Its for appearance. Ive sprayed painted my old radiator a lil due to the flaking of the paint. My motor never overheated. Temperature readings remains the same on the gauges after painted. A few years back, i was chatting with someone on AIM about cars, and radiator coatings came up. I found a online store that was selling a special formulated aerosol spray paint for radiators. It's guaranteed not to lose the efficiency of the radiator. It was only $8 per a can.
Anodizing requires dipping the object into series of baths. The sh1t isn't cheap either. I highly doubt that factory radiators are anodized. If so, then tell me why factory replacement radiators sell only for $75-125? Windows and door frames are usually powdercoated. Why? Well because anodizing is too much $$$. If radiators are anodized, theyre not gonna run 75-125 Tell me why the paint on radiators peels? Now im only guessing here. So fill me in on some info.

 

i delete my post and 30 seconds later I get flamed wtf

 

I was going to sway him if he wanted to be stealthy/Sleeper get an Upgraded SMIC from ARC; those things are pretty baller when I saw one in Option. but I wasnt sure on how good they were as far as for building boost. But my position is FMIC. But that kit for the V mount looked pretty neat

 

^^^ Ive seen his (sold him silvia headlights/corner lights) His FMIC is a boxtruck intercooler or something. My Friend Anthony has a smiliar setup on his 280z.

 

I would recommend a fmic. You can also ducting to increase air that will cool the intercooler and radiator.

But if your not planning to have a/c you can do this.


I was in the process of designing a intercooler for my track car, so i could keep the pop up light functional, before that went sour. With this application you can put the intercooler where your a/c consendor use to be and move you radiator back about 1 to 2 inches. The Advantages of this intercooler placement are shorter pipes, less couplers, keeps the intercooler out of harms way. But the biggest advantage to me was the ability to run ducting straight to the intercooler and radiator and using the side vents for a oil cooler and Air intake system.

 

jee thxs buddy ¬_¬

 

dude you knew my money issue! I'm sorry dude!!