Nissan/Infiniti Tech SR20DET? RB26DETT? VQ35DE? What's it all mean? Find out here!

SR20DET HARNESS PLEASE CHECK (Taylor Durden) 56K BEWARE

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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 05:59 AM
  #21 (permalink)  
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I was searching another site and here is what I found. This is the EXACT same problem I am having. Could this be true in my case if my ecu works in another car?
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...uel+pump+power
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 06:19 AM
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maybe mad wasnt a good word. upset, and anxious maybe>?
im not trying to be mean, i feel bad, and would like to help.
by the two shops i was referring to cfp, and taylor.
let just one help you, and it cuts down on confusion.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 06:21 AM
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i dont have a zilvia pw. what does it say/
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 08:45 AM
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Zilvia.net Forums (http://www.zilvia.net/f/index.php)
- Tech Talk (http://www.zilvia.net/f/forumdisplay.php?f=8)
- - Not getting any spark (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=18831)

Foreva180 11-14-2002 10:17 PM

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I just installed a Sr20det into my 90 240sx.  The car will crank, but it will not start.  I pull the fuel line, and realized that my fuel pump is not working.  I looked at relay box on the passenger side of the engine, and saw the egi pump relay.  I thought that would be the fuel pump relay, so I maually wired a line from the fuel pump to the relay.  The car started.  I realized that I need to wire the electrical fan too, so I tried to connect the same wire to the relay for the fuel pump.  Next thing I know, the car will not start anymore.  I took out my multimeter and test the voltage on the relay.  There are 4 wires that's connected under the relay.

1.  Constant Power Line:  12v is constant supplied through that line.
2.  Ground
3.  Signal Wire:  it's red/black.  when the key is at the off position, it should act like a ground, but when the key is at the on position, the signal wire should have 12v going through.
4.  Power wire:  it sends out 12v to whatever it needs to power.

Right now my signal wire it's not sending out any voltage nor ground when it's off or on.  I have no idea where that wire goes to.
I took out my spark plug and tried to see if it sparks or not, and it doesn't.  I looked at the circuit diagram for the car.  There are two things that's needed for the plug to spark.  One is the ignition coil relay, and the other one is the ignitor chip.  I checked my ignitor chip by using it on another car, and it works just fine.  My ignition coil pack relay clicks when i try to start the car.  I changed the relay, and it's still doesn't spark.  Maybe it's not the relay and it's the ignitor chip sensing something wrong?  I need help badly, and if you are in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area, please try to help me.  I need my car badly.  Thanks you all very much.

Foreva180 11-15-2002 04:21 PM

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bump, please help me

kickertu 11-15-2002 06:00 PM

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Check your ecu.. we had a similar problem. we pulled the ecu, and a bog portion of it was fried. try that

Foreva180 11-15-2002 08:38 PM

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hmm..thanks for the info and that'll be the next thing i'll check.  may i ask, how was your ecu fried? thanks!

Foreva180 11-16-2002 09:57 PM

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i fixed my car.  i am writing this for future references.  it was the ecu that was fried.  i just did a visual check by looking at the led on the ecu.  mine original one didn't light up, and the new one i did and worked.


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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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Guys,

We might want to add. Here's the history on the whole swap. Swap was put in, motor started right up with no problems. There was a problem with an intercooler piping that was not connect correctly, once that issue was solved, the car ran PERFECT. The swap and car has been running 2~3 week and now has developed this problem.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SpottedMango
Guys,

We might want to add. Here's the history on the whole swap. Swap was put in, motor started right up with no problems. There was a problem with an intercooler piping that was not connect correctly, once that issue was solved, the car ran PERFECT. The swap and car has been running 2~3 week and now has developed this problem.
Thanks Ian.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 09:24 AM
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I think we're troubleshooting this the wrong way. This car has run in it's current configuration. I saw it with my own 2 eyes. The excerpt above is for a car that has never run before. Something has changed. Either a part has died, a fuse/relay/wire has burned up, or there was a loose connection and it survived for 2 weeks until now.

Also, I've talked in person with JimmyHat and he's a knowledgable guy. He's just new to import turbo swap nonsense. Cut him some slack. He's not some idiot highschool kid.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Epstein
I think we're troubleshooting this the wrong way. This car has run in it's current configuration. I saw it with my own 2 eyes. The excerpt above is for a car that has never run before. Something has changed. Either a part has died, a fuse/relay/wire has burned up, or there was a loose connection and it survived for 2 weeks until now.

Also, I've talked in person with JimmyHat and he's a knowledgable guy. He's just new to import turbo swap nonsense. Cut him some slack. He's not some idiot highschool kid.
GOD BLESS you SIR! SIR'S (Epstein and Spooted Mango)
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 11:46 AM
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OK OK. I took the harness to CFP to have them check it and clean it up for me. It was tested and found that it has the same problem on there car as mine. There right around the corner from me or else I would of summond Taylor's services. I get it back tomorrow morning and will let you all know how it goes.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by SpottedMango
Guys,

We might want to add. Here's the history on the whole swap. Swap was put in, motor started right up with no problems. There was a problem with an intercooler piping that was not connect correctly, once that issue was solved, the car ran PERFECT. The swap and car has been running 2~3 week and now has developed this problem.
heh odd.....
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