lancerman

I just couldnt make power with it. Just couldnt control knock noise in 2 and 4. Engine was audible noisy when cold. had rod knock sounds. Horrible lifter noises cold and hot. And was burning oil. And I mean burning some serious oil. I has just changed the oil. And after about 1/3rd tank fuel it used about 1.5 quarts oil. So decision was made to tear engine down for freshening up. And holly hell the things I found wrong with her. glad I didnt try to pushing it any harder. 2 and 4 are leaking oil at guides. 4 getting hella lot of oil. either that or horrible eth distribution. But I am leaning toward oil coming from head in that cylinder. no 2 cylinder missing 1/3 of its threads. (poor plug cooling) And last but not least rod bearing wiped out from excessive hot start issues I had with the ID1000s that were in the car last year. on the good side pistons look amazing. No signs of knock whatsoever. I had Zero blow by and seemingly perfect ring seal. and excellent head gasket seal as well. so good news is so far block doesnt have to come out. just needs fresh bearings. just need to build a nice cylinder head for it.

Boost Demon

How much of the problem would you attribute to the old fuel injectors and head issue? Are you gonna try using this kit again once it's all back together? Is that an Evo X turbo?, pretty cool idea/upgrade over the normal 16g most people tend to go with.

wishiwasfast

Why arn't you running copper NGK's?

lancerman

I will use the injection again. Was working very well. I am sure the 4th cylinder looks like that from busted intake guide oil seal.

The turbo is HTA green from evo X. I wanted twin scroll bad enough to retrofit the kit. Been on car for almost two years.

The iridium plugs are the best I have used. Far better than the copper.

Boost Demon

Cool, can't wait to see how it goes once she's back up and running. What type of bearing are you going with this time around? Is there any particular piston you'd suggest for drop-in rebuilds? Now that I think about it I think I remember you writing up your Evo X turbo swap on tuners, have you had it on the dyno, or taken it to the track since it's been done?

lancerman

I cant wait either. The cylinder head was stock. Its now getting a lancerman ported head. been massaging it for last two days. Found a really creamy never cut head. Getting super tech undercut intake valves and fresh set of evo 8 exhaust valves. Also gonna install some GSC beehive springs. I suspect valves may have floated at 7500rpm. Plus I may want to try some more aggressive cams once its all dialed in right.

I dont believe money spent on good bearings is really worth it. bearings run on oil film 99% of their life. its that 1% when there is crank contact that a good or bad bearing may make a difference. But from what I have seen, like the dry start problem, there is no better bearing. They will all emerge scored like pics above. so do you want a 20 dollar scored bearing or a 60 dollar scored bearing? Any bearing that has a soft babbit for first coating works for me. its that soft layer that can absorb any small small particles that would other wise score crank with a hard bearing. When money is not an issue I like the ACL race bearings.

car has only been on dyno twice and track I think three times. kinda bashful in those areas. daily driven hard though. fun car..

All drop in pistons are pretty good if block is prepped correctly. Most people make mistake of using too heavy grit hone and then not cleaning bores correctly. you are better off not touching bores and just drop them in literally.

lancerman

ready to do battle. intake ports slightly tweaked. left rough for best results with alky injection. helps atomize fuel. lots of time on exhaust ports. should spool a couple hundred rpm faster now. and hold torque better to redline. and polished chambers for better overall performance. less heat lost to head, more in chamber. heat =power. this head will wake this baby up.

ThE iNfAmOuS p MoNeY

looking good Jerry!!

wishiwasfast

Looks good Jerry! Wanna do mine?

THE_ONE

+1