'89 Conquest TSI: Ignition Problems
A buddy of mine has an 89 Chrysler Conquest TSI (Mitsubishi Starion), and it'd been sitting for months. One day it just wouldn't turn on. So, I came over to take a look at it, and found out it's an electrical problem. The ECU isn't getting any power when the switch is "On," and neither is the Ignition Coil. But, there's continuity between the Battery to the Ignition Switch, and from the Ignition Switch to the Ignition Coil. I haven't tested whether the ECU is actually getting power or not, but I suspect the ECU could be bad. I only assume the ECU isn't getting power because the "Dummy Lights," don't come on when the ignition is switched on. All the Fusible links are good, and the ignition switch itself looks like it's in great condition.
By any chance, does anyone here have an Extra ECU that would be compatible with this car. It's an 89, Turbo, Manual, with the 2.6 SOHC motor. I'm not sure how Mitsubishi ECUs work as far as compatibility, but it would really help me if I could test out an extra ECU.
Also, does anyone have any ideas? I realize these cars are very much prone to electrical failure, but I just can't crack this one. I still have a few more ideas I need to test out, but I'm just working on my friend's car in my spare time, so it's not an active project. In the mean time, two heads are better than one.
Originally, I suspected the problem was the ignition switch. Because basically NOTHING happens when you turn the key. No immediate change, no relays click, no lights come on. But the ignition switch is getting power, and it appears to be sending it the right way, as far as I can tell. Unless I missed something. I may advise my friend to replace that anyway, since it's only about $20 online, but I'm almost certain that isn't the problem. I tried to bypass the ignition switch, and jumper the power to simulate the ignition being on the "ON," position, but there was no luck. Like I said, there's continuity between the ignition switch and the ignition coil, but the power gets shorted on the way from the switch to the coil somewhere when the ignition is "ON." Looking through the manual, I can't even tell whether the harness goes directly from the ignition switch to the coil, or if it goes through the ECI, and honestly... I don't know what the hell an ECI is, or where to find it on the car. Help?
By any chance, does anyone here have an Extra ECU that would be compatible with this car. It's an 89, Turbo, Manual, with the 2.6 SOHC motor. I'm not sure how Mitsubishi ECUs work as far as compatibility, but it would really help me if I could test out an extra ECU.
Also, does anyone have any ideas? I realize these cars are very much prone to electrical failure, but I just can't crack this one. I still have a few more ideas I need to test out, but I'm just working on my friend's car in my spare time, so it's not an active project. In the mean time, two heads are better than one.
Originally, I suspected the problem was the ignition switch. Because basically NOTHING happens when you turn the key. No immediate change, no relays click, no lights come on. But the ignition switch is getting power, and it appears to be sending it the right way, as far as I can tell. Unless I missed something. I may advise my friend to replace that anyway, since it's only about $20 online, but I'm almost certain that isn't the problem. I tried to bypass the ignition switch, and jumper the power to simulate the ignition being on the "ON," position, but there was no luck. Like I said, there's continuity between the ignition switch and the ignition coil, but the power gets shorted on the way from the switch to the coil somewhere when the ignition is "ON." Looking through the manual, I can't even tell whether the harness goes directly from the ignition switch to the coil, or if it goes through the ECI, and honestly... I don't know what the hell an ECI is, or where to find it on the car. Help?
You could always try to just hard wire the ecu.
don't know the car well enough to tell you how to do it, but that could be an option.
I'd start with replacing the ignition switch. There are things in the car that should power on regardless of the ecu.
Also, are you sure the battery has a good charge? If it is too low, things won't kick on the way they should.
As for the coil, it should always have 12v. the ecu controls it by grounding it out. Some cars have a switched 12v that is controlled by a relay. So that could explain why you are getting power to the coil.
Replace the ignition switch. That could solve all of the problems.
don't know the car well enough to tell you how to do it, but that could be an option.
I'd start with replacing the ignition switch. There are things in the car that should power on regardless of the ecu.
Also, are you sure the battery has a good charge? If it is too low, things won't kick on the way they should.
As for the coil, it should always have 12v. the ecu controls it by grounding it out. Some cars have a switched 12v that is controlled by a relay. So that could explain why you are getting power to the coil.
Replace the ignition switch. That could solve all of the problems.
ecu doesnt control dummy lights. you have a power from battery problem
__________________
want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
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"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV

my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
The battery isn't the problem. I've tried different batteries, Most of the testing I've done have been performed while the terminals were jumpered to a running car battery. Either way, the battery that's currently in the car is good. I'm getting between 12.20 -12.50 volts from it. The ignition switch is getting 12.38 volts, if I recall. I'm going to replace the ignition switch, I will order it soon.
I'm not getting power to the coil. Did you mean "NOT," getting power to the coil?
According to the Schematics:
Power goes from the battery to the Ignition Switch. When, and only when the switch is turned to "On," power goes from the ignition switch straight to the Ignition Coil. And ground to the Ignition coil comes from plug 1 of the "ECI Control Unit."
That wouldn't be the ECU, would it? I've never heard the term "ECI," before.
So that could explain why you are getting power to the coil.
According to the Schematics:
Power goes from the battery to the Ignition Switch. When, and only when the switch is turned to "On," power goes from the ignition switch straight to the Ignition Coil. And ground to the Ignition coil comes from plug 1 of the "ECI Control Unit."
That wouldn't be the ECU, would it? I've never heard the term "ECI," before.
I didnt mean battery power problem. I mean battery powers the harness/ecu is many ways. One is amiss. either blown fuse somewhere or one of the power (+) wires from battery not connected.
__________________
want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV
my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
want a piece of the yellow car? (buy it)
you have to beat the blue car first
and then you have to take on the IV

my favorite quote
"if the solution is simple, God is answering"
Still waiting on the Ignition Switch. Apparently it's coming in a week.
My 10th Starion/Conquest

https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/m...on-gsr-vr.html
Good Info Here
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