NO NO NO NO! If the ic pipe was disconnected you would just get no boost, that has nothing to with it. You might have a blown head gasket, boost sensor, wires going to and from boost sensor should also be checked.

My brothers 3rd gen rx-7 had a diconnected ic pipe and didnt notice until boost was expected but it didnt prevent the car drove driving. plus we thought the boost sensor was out and it was just a bad wire.

 

I think its "Idle surge" look it up.

its the IAC, could be mechanical or electrical failure.


-rick

(I better get beer if im right)

 

the key thing you said here is R-X7!!! boost sensor? dsm's use a maf befoe the turbo to measure the amount of air coming into the motor, So if there was a i/c pipe off it would cause the car to kick and sputter when you give it gas but would most times atleast idle. go back to the mazda forum....

The ecu is a good place to look, if you know someone with a pocket logger they should be able to pull any code the car may have. Did you do any thing to the car right before this happened or did it just happen one day? what were you doing when it stopped running?

 

thought pocket loggers were only compatible with 1gs

 

I had a similar problem and it was my Cam Position Sensor.
How many miles do you have?
I also would reccomend having somebody hook it up to a Diagnostic machine that reads DSMs.


...As far as I know, pocket/dataloggers don't discriminate based on age......

 

as far as reading the codes: here are some for your car that might show the problem. The number is the number of flashes on the readout.

12 volume air flow sensor

14 throttle position sensor

23 cam position sensor

41 injector sensor

42 fuel pump

44 ignition coil/ignition power transistor unit

there are others but these seem to be the ones that it would throw for the sympoms given if one of these is the case.

 

All you need to check the codes on you car is a $10 volt/ohms meter. in this case the analog meter is much easier to read.

The diagnostic plug on your car will be located on the right hand side of the fuse box, under the dash. It will be an unplugged connector with 12 pins.The two pins that need to be jumped are the 12 and number 1 pins. with the meter on the VOLTAGE setting and the car in the ON position, the code could be read in short and long bursts of voltage. long bursts signify digits of 10 and short bursts in digits of one.

 

Or you could just buy a datalogger which you should own anyways if you own any sort of dsm.

 

Id definetely go over all the IC hoses first just to make sure its not a simple problem that can be resolved. Next Id check the ecu, leaky caps are known to cause idle surge and it is recommended that you replace them. Let us know with an update whats up.

 

what about your fuel lilter? whens the last time you changed that and check your intake line if you have a stock one fro cracks or anything. get the injectors cleaned, that also helps.