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Lifter Tick, I yell at my car :(

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Old Jul 30, 2003 | 01:54 PM
  #32 (permalink)  
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Oil is the bearings that your engine uses. What bearings did you use?

Discount uses valvoline oil.

If you really want me to argue the oil argument you will have to ask me in person.
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Old Jul 30, 2003 | 02:19 PM
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Originally posted by Ravage
ive done some research and im wrong on some parts and right on others

i will present all my opnions as soon as i got all the backup material to support it with

You wont convince people who have been using synthetic oil to stop using it. If you saw the inside of a head that has been using mobil 1 for 100k miles and one that has been using regular oil for the same miles you would see the difference. Synthietic oil just protects better and wont break down as easy.
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Old Jul 31, 2003 | 03:15 PM
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Didnt i already say something about this...

Synthetics dont burn off as soon as mineral oils do. they can get several hundred degrees hotter than mineral oils before they start to smoke. when they smoke, they break down and leave carbon deposits, and thats what breaks shit... when the oil breaks down it thins out...at least standard weight oil. when you get the multigrade oil, it thickens as it gets hotter. the molecules space out father apart, and get locked together w/ the other hydrocarbon chains and make the liquid thicken up... its like when water starts to free, and ice crystals start to form, and grow... the ice crystals start to snag on eachother and it turns into a slushy; it gets thicker than normal water. same idea behind multigrade.

the difference between the synthetic and mineral based oil is just that one will be able to endure higher heat and for a longer period of time than the other. its cuz of them longer, more complex hydro-carbon chains... it takes more thermal energy to break apart the bonds... its not like a chain chain... its like a chain where each link is connected to several other links...the more links, the more energy it takes to break the bonds... thus, synthetic has more bonds than mineral oils, simply cuz man made them that way. since the man made the oil... hes gona stick it to us and try to keep a brotha down by charging like $5/quart.
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Old Jul 31, 2003 | 03:45 PM
  #36 (permalink)  
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josh just fix the shit so you dont yell at the car anymore!!
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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 05:17 AM
  #37 (permalink)  
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Like tom said. Cheap insurance. Is it going to kill you to use Synthetic and change it frequently? No. If you can't afford it, sell your "performance car" and buy a beater that you can use .79 cent oil in. I don't think anyone has blamed engine failure on changing oil too much.
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Old Aug 1, 2003 | 05:50 AM
  #38 (permalink)  
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Originally posted by flubyux2
when you get the multigrade oil, it thickens as it gets hotter. the molecules space out father apart, and get locked together w/ the other hydrocarbon chains and make the liquid thicken up... its like when water starts to free, and ice crystals start to form, and grow... the ice crystals start to snag on eachother and it turns into a slushy; it gets thicker than normal water. same idea behind multigrade.

Since when do multigrade oils get thicker when hotter.

Multigrade oils get thinner when hotter due to polymers added in that unwind when heated.

Example. 20w50.


20w oil means at 100c it is 20w, not at room temperature. So 20w oil is not 20w at room temperature, it is thinner. The weight ratings on oil only shows the weight of the oil at 100c. At hotter temps it is thinner and at lower temps it is thicker.

20w50 has the viscosity of a 20w oil when cold(remember that doesn't mean it is 20w at room temperature, just simply the weight that 20w rated oils would be at room temperature). When the oil heats it thins as much as 50 weight oil will get when it is hot. Straight 50 weight oil would be real thick at room temp.

So 20w50 starts out as thin as a 20w oil would be at room temp then transitions to the viscosity that 50w is when hot. Basically the polymers allow the oil to thin at a slower rate.
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Old Aug 5, 2003 | 09:51 PM
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throw the lifters in degreaser, soak em for 3-4 days, that'll do it
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Old Aug 6, 2003 | 08:18 AM
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What is monograde and multigrade lubricant?



Monograde oil (ie. SAE 40) behaves in a linear relationship to temperature. The higher the temperature, the thinner the oil gets and the lower the temperature, the thicker the oil gets.

Because of this characteristic of engine oil, if we are using monograde oil, we have to change to a thicker oil (ie. SAE 40 or 50) during the summer and change back to thinner oil (ie. SAE 30) during winter.

SAE index may have a letter W (such as SAE 20W) which indicates the oils suitability for use in colder climate.

Technology advancement and we now have additives that will help reduce the change in engine oil thickness due to temperature. These are called multigrade oils which behave like a thicker oil when the engine is hot (running) and behave like a thinner oil when the engine is cold (starting up). With the arrival of multigrade oils, we no longer require to change to different thickness/viscosity of oil depending on the weather season. We can now use one multigrade oil for all seasons. The multigrade oil with SAE index number being SAE 20W/50 indicates thicknesses at low and high temperature respectively.

From EMAT Oil, Mydreamoil.com
and...
ECONOMECHANIX
4404 NW 13th Street #25, Gainesville, Florida 32609
(352) 376-5624 / Fax (352) 376-5624

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The most important system to the "health" of your engine is the lubication system. Oils have changed a lot in the past few years, and a lot of confusing information is out there. Hopefully this will help.
OIL VISCOSITY
An oil's viscosity is just how thick it is. Viscosity is measured by an oil's "weight" Way back when all cars used 30 wt (weight) oil. This is a single grade oil: its actual viscosity varies with temperature. single grade oil gets thinner when hot and thicker when cold. Multigrade oils have labels like "10w-40" or "20w-50". Their thickness changes with temperature also, but they change the opposite way from single grade oils. A 10w-40 motor oil behaves like a 10 wt oil when cold and behaves like a 40 wt oil when hot.

Generally a thicker oil will withstand more abuse, however thick oils can take longer to reach engine parts when the engine is started. In cold climates a thinner oil (lower "wt" number) is often used to compensate for this. Engine startup is when most engine wear occurs: it runs for few seconds without oil pressure every time you start it.

Manufacturers are using thinner and thinner oils in cars. (5w-30 wt is recommended for many new cars.) This is primarily for fuel efficiency. In Florida I've never seen a car have problems from using a thicker oil than this, but then again I haven't seen any of the new ones burn up engines from these thinner oils. I have seen higher mileage engines consume more oil of the lower viscosity types: if your engine uses more than 1 qt every 1000 miles you might use a higher viscosity than recommended by the manufacturer. Another reason to go with a slightly higher viscosity would be if you anticipate driving in extreme high temperatures. Otherwise, I'd stick with whatever grade the manufacturer recommends.



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as well as...
Q. WHAT IS A MULTIGRADE ENGINE OIL ?

A. Multigrade engine oils are formulated to meet the requirements of more than one SAE viscosity grade classification, and therefore may be used over a wider temperature range than single grade oils. A multigrade oil is identified by two SAE grade designations. For example, an SAE 10W-30 designation indicates that the oil acts like a 10W oil at cold temperatures and a 30 grade oil at normal operating temperatures.

Taken from http://www.lubeoils.com/generalfaq.html#38m
and last time i checked... Oil with a thinner viscosity is rated with a lower number like 0w, 5w, or 10w... and oil with a thicker viscosity is rated with a higher number, like 40w, 50w, 80w, etc.

you still gonna stick to your story even though i have cited 3 independent sources that contradict you?
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