ya thats what its looking like imma do

 

You don't know what you're talking about....

Aaron swapped his FD for about 5K after selling of the running stuff, and PLENTY of others have done even cheaper. FCs have cheaper mount kits from what I've seen. I don't know where you got the bare minimum of 10K from, but it's just wrong.

To the OP, don't give it to Hinson to do. They will absolutely rape you on the prices and you'll end up with shoddy build quality. I strongly urge you to tackle it yourself. It ain't that bad, not nearly as bad as 1sleeping7 is trying to make it. Countless idiots have done it already. I think you'll need a TII diff, I'm not sure if the NA ones have gotten by with stock LS1s.

 

thanks

 

I agree Monsta13 to what Troux said. if you want to do a reliable swap, its your call. You will see in the end its all worth it.

 

think about it this way would you rather spend around 1900 bucs for a jdm turbo 2 swap or spend 6 k or more for 200 hp extra ? is that really worth it ? think about it and yes for those who talk trash heres the specs... AND dont bring up oh well the LS1 is more reliable spare ME .... I JUST drove my turbo motor to TN and back not to mention dragons tail in NC over 1000 miles just recently and still pulls hard...
'' LS1 LS1 LS1 LS1 ''
General Specifications
Displacement 5.7L (5665cc, 346ci) Gross Horsepower 310 @ 5200 RPM, 320 @ 5800 RPM
Bore/Stroke 3.90/3.62 Gross Torque 340 @ 4000 RPM, 330 @ 4400 RPM
Compression Ratio 10.1:1 Maximum RPM 6200 < I LOVE THIS HAHA FAIL

ROTARY ROTARY 13BT ''S5''
13b 4 port
1308cc 80 cu in
9 to 1 comp ratio
200 HP AT 6,500 RPM'S
196 HP AT 3,500 RPM'S
Rx-7 Specifications compared

 

Redlines are really turning into ricer math these days, especially with Honda and rotary enthusiasts. For a single given engine, it's better to be able to rev higher almost always (except when the engine isn't going to make any more power up higher), but one engine having a higher redline than another doesn't make it any better. In this case, the LS engines have broader torque curves than just about any engine out there, due to their displacement. They don't NEED to rev any higher to make power and to be fast, and this makes for a more enjoyable drive on the streets, where you don't need to downshift to pick up speed, as well as an easier drive on a road course, where you don't have to worry about losing a bunch of momentum if you fall out of your perfect rev range or boost.

You're only going to start to need higher revs when you mod the heads/valvetrain, at which point the engine is going to be able to take higher revs! You can take it to 6800 RPM or so, or add $200 in rod bolts (luckily the oil pan is easier to drop than the stock FD one) and take it to 7K+. Either way, not many LS owners feel jaded about their "low" redline. Some people prefer turbos and high revvers, which don't make a whole lot of sense to me on the street, but choose whatever suits you!

Also, by the time the engine is in the car and running, most guys' LS1's are around 400 FWHP or more with the inherent mods that come with even a basic swap.

Edit: Here's one example of a guy that spent $6500 for a pretty basic LS1 FC swap. That's without factoring in selling off the stock parts.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php/topic,456.0.html

The nice thing about the FC swaps are that more people are doing them on a tight budget, as compared to the FD swaps, so there have been a lot of cost-cutting ideas that have sprung up throughout the years; Taurus radiator and fan, C4 Vette aluminum driveshaft, factory and aftermarket exhaust manifolds and headers, etc.

 

driveable power is all about area under the curve. Tuners and engine builders know this. Not to mention you are comparing apples to oranges. A stock lsx block will hold 6-8 pounds without needing to modify internals. Compare the power of an lsx block on 6 pounds to any stock 20+ year old "factory turbo" engine and you'll see hands down your already starting off with less. Not to mention the difference in gas mileage, power potential, price per hp, ease of replacement/maitnance parts, the list goes on and on.

Now dont get me wrong i love me a 13bt. I have one, am building another, and will probably continue to do so... but the Chevrolet v8 (even b4 the LS) is nothing to stick your nose up at. Either engine can be built to perform wonderfully in any application, and reliability is not an issue providing the engine is built properly and maintained reasonably. Its all about what you want to do, your ability to do so, and the size of your pockets.

I also aggree that you should do the LS swap yourself, if you chose to go that route. If you do a T2 swap, id suggest you do that yourself too! Im a big fan of "in house work".

 

the point of an rx7 is the high r.p.ms. if you want a v8 get a vett. they are getting cheaper. need better mpgs? find a cheap geo or something. these cars are the only cars built around the rotory so why lose that. it might not be cheaper for you at first but look at buying a shell if you want to do a swap. your vert is in all honesty one of the cleanest around. keep it that way and build your race/drift car on a shell. fc shells are dog shit cheap too.

 

The owner of any car should be able to decide what they want to do with THEIR car. plain and simple. Anyone who says otherwise is an idiot/fanboy. Thats just the cold hard truth. If your dead set on "saving the rotary" then you should ban together with all the other triangle groupies and buy every single one of em you can find. Then you could open up an Rx museum. Otherwise jump off the nut swingin and chill the fuck out. The levels of stupidity on these forums is sometimes overwhelming.

With that being said, as i stated earlier, either engine will get the job done and can be built for anything. T2's are cheap and easy to get, and you already have a line on an LS1 and fc kits are pretty cheap. Which ever you decide will be a step up from where you are and both will be enjoyable. Figure out what you wanna do and go for it.

BTW.... formula cars have pistons.... and they are built for high rshared_pm horsepower. its not about what engine you use, its about how you build it.

 

you totally missed my point pope. HIS car is in great shape. he want to drift and race right? it will get messed up. shells are crazy cheap and a better place to start if he really wants to build a street/track car with an engine swap. but i do agree its his car and he can and should do what he wants.