Motor: LS Vtec (Gsr Head/B18A1 Block)

After reading a ton of different threads on different forums, I'm still trying to debate on the best method to break in a newly built motor. I've read lots of people just let it idle to warm up with the fans coming on, check for leaks and any smoking etc.repeat twice and then change the oil. Now after this step, some tow it to the DYNO tune then they are good to go. Other prefer to street tune, break in then take to the DYNO tune? What do you guys prefer around here? What has worked and hasnt worked out for you, any tips?!

 

Phearable.net - Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Solutions - Hondata, Neptune, Crome, Uberdata, Ectune, AEM, Honda Tuning, Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, Turbos, LS/VTEC, ECU Chipping, Chipped Ecus, P28

 

In general:

First he takes the car out to seat the rings with a non detergent oil.Come back, change the oil. Check everything over for leaks, check the spark plugs, coolant level, etc.

Go out and drive the car but not at full tilt for 100 miles, change the oil again.

Next up drive the car for 500 - 750 miles not at full tilt and watch for the pistons to dry.

After that, change the oil again and then off to the dyno to tune.

 

Thanks to both^^ that link had tons of good info.. and chi this might be a noobish question but what exactly does "watch for the pistons to dry" mean?!.. And funny both of these methods are complete opposites of each other.. can never win

 

I belive in all chi said, just make sure tou romp on it a few times to seat rings properly.

 

No don't romp on it a few times. Seating the rings is by bringing the revs up and down at a controlled rate and the rpm's stay low, we definitely do not hit vtec to give you an idea. We use a side street with no traffic to make a few passes on to do it.

Sorry for the delayed response but I wanted to ask again on this to make sure I was getting it right. The drying of the pistons is from the dynamic sealing of the engine. So as the oil rings on the piston make their contact with the cylinder wall they will stop the splashing of oil coming up to the top of the piston and thereby you'll see the drying of the piston as the oil stays in the oil ring.

He also preps the cylinder wall with a dry lubricant he found out about.

 

Chi thanks alot for all the info and getting back, it's def appreciated. That's what I have heard so far to be the more common method, of breaking it in while staying out of vtec. Hoping to get my motor out the machine shop soon.. been there a few months.. bottom end balancing and block assembly is all that is still missing!!!... then I can get this to my builder and start the swap!.. I am planning on getting my ECU calibrated and adjusted for the rc370cc injectors before firing the motor up as well..I'll update it again once I break it in see how it goes..

 

You're welcome. Good luck.

 

Another issue I found myself when debating which break-in procedure to go with, was that I'm also using a brand new clutch. So I will need to break in the clutch before I can throw it on the dyno. Seems like the only way to get this done will be possibly a small street tune to get the car running right while I break in the clutch over the 500-1000 miles and break the motor in at that same time.

 

My friend with an Accord just went thru the same thing, he broke in the engine and his clutch at the same time. It took some time but he is nearly there.

I know for me when I realized the $ I had into the build, keeping my foot out of it was easy. Then when you feel that engine start to find its power and that clutch start to grab ... nothing like feeling a build come to life. Enjoy.