Ok as some of yall know, my Si had jumped timing by a LOT and I think valves made a little love to piston because leakdown test showed a 30-40% leak. There is NO evdence of a valve hitting a piston by looking at the valves or pistons. Not sure what really happend.

So anyways....I got another head, went though it all, lapped the valves, all cleaned up, Felpro headgasket, ARP headstuds, pulled the pan/windage tray/oil pickup and cleaned it all out, wanted to make sure that absolutely no antifreeze got to the bottom end (and it didn't ), new Felpro pickup tube gasket and oil pan gasket, cleaned everything up and put it back together, fresh oil, new timing belt, timing is dead on all, adjusted the valve lash, everything tripple checked for leaks and to make sure sensors and ect were all plugged in.

Everything is good except for 1 sensor plug that I cant find that goes to anything. Not sure it was even pluged in before. Its on the same line of wires that the big dizzy conector is, I can get pics of that later.


Anyways it runs great, better then before, but I have no vtec. The head went together correctly, and the solenoid was pulled from my head and put on the new head (was a working solenoid). What do I need to check? Oil is there, not sure of oil pressure.

 

Which plug goes no where? There are 2 gray connectors and one green connector.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1812135

 

Awesome link I will have to troubleshoot with it later this week when I can work on the car again.

In not sure what connector it is, its not the big connector that goes to the dizzy, its the next connector on the same line. I though it has a gray cap.

 

That connector stays unplugged it goes nowhere

 

Just go over the basics a few times.

Vtec Solenoid, Oil pressure, Knock Sensor. Make sure they are all plugged in good and double check the pins on the ECU.

 

I guess I will have to look at it tonight, I know the knock sensor is plugged in.

I hope its something simple, because I hate wiring, and looking at those wiring diagrams was making me dizzy.

Here is a small video of the car taking its first breaths after being down for 2 weeks. Its running smoother then it was before thats for sure, I use to have quite a bit of valvetrain noise, not anymore. Now I have the timing good as far as the belt, but what should I do about the timing with the dizzy? I just lined it up the same as my old head which was dead centered but it seems to run ok. I don't own a timing light.

 

Is the car throwing a any codes (check engine light), if so, what code is it throwing?

 

No check engine light, and it never cam on even when it jumped timing.

Is there a way something can be jumped to check for codes?

 

Check the bulb in the cluster

 

Ok so I went home to look at the car last night for an hour, I think its in some protection mode or something. It idles at 1500rpm, and no VTEC.

My battery is shot, so I had to jump it, once it got started it ran like shit, it would hardly run, I had to give it gas just to stay running, was poppin and hickuping, then after 25 seconds it cleared out, this is the same thing that happend when the car broke down, and when I went to start it again after rebuild. In the video you can clearly see it idles high.

Its drivable, lots of bottom end compaired to before, but there is hickuping under load on anything under 2500 rpm, and going from idle to rev it there is a slight hesitation at low rshared_pm. Also found my Autometer tach doesn't work anymore, it moves when it cranks, then stays stuck at 7k once started.

I need to drive this car soon, can someone help?? I have no idea, sorta thinking coil?