LS Cank question
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mowchowbrowncow
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You are better off using a B18C crank in a B18C block. The 0.2 bump in compression and very slight torque increase are not worth the trade offs. With the LS crank you have to either modify the rods or get after market ones. Even if you get ARP bolts and have the shot-peened, the big end will still oval at high revs. A good set of after market rods cost more than a set of Eagle rods. You will also most likely have to block off the oil squirters, which is taking away from the advantages of using a B18C block in the fist place.
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How is the GSr crank not "better"? Better balancing from the factory, better bearing choices, the stock rods that fit a GSR crank are better. There are also better ways to raise compression than swapping cranks.
Never have, never will.
You're right, it will be safe and reliable if built correctly. Most people do not invest enough time and/or money to do things the correct way. People run much larger cranks than 89mm, but they are not always the best choice. Oil jets are one or the advantages of a VTEC block.
Do you really think that the OP would benefit from swapping a LS crank in a B18C block? The amount of money needed to correctly swap a LS crank would/could/should be better put towards other modifications, especially if the OP already has a complete bottom end. A stock GSR bottom end will rev higher than 8K, without having to have rod bolts installed, have resized, or have the small ends shaved down to accept B16 pistons.
Eagle rods are cheap Chinese crap and, IMO, garbage. They work, but there are much better choices available.
Never have, never will.
You're right, it will be safe and reliable if built correctly. Most people do not invest enough time and/or money to do things the correct way. People run much larger cranks than 89mm, but they are not always the best choice. Oil jets are one or the advantages of a VTEC block.
Do you really think that the OP would benefit from swapping a LS crank in a B18C block? The amount of money needed to correctly swap a LS crank would/could/should be better put towards other modifications, especially if the OP already has a complete bottom end. A stock GSR bottom end will rev higher than 8K, without having to have rod bolts installed, have resized, or have the small ends shaved down to accept B16 pistons.
Eagle rods are cheap Chinese crap and, IMO, garbage. They work, but there are much better choices available.
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i built this same setup, rev'd it to 8900 everyday. oil squirters aren't really a big deal and removing them doesnt harm the motor. the small ends of ls rods do not need to be shave to accept b16 pistons, that is only true with itr pistons on ls rods. putting an ls crank in a gsr block is not as hard or expensive as you are making it seem. maybe you should try build one before speaking about it.
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Honda-Tech > TampaRacing
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TR "Old Skool EF" Member #666
All motor 1.8L: 201/140 More coming soon
I mount an balance 24" tires for $40 each.
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i have built more motors than just honda, some have oil squirters and some don't. the fact that a motor is lacking oil squirters doesnt make or break the build, the builder does. all that other shit about oval rod ends is crap tho. i don't need to speak with honda engineers to know that it works, i have done it and the proof is on youtube. you could have a million of them tell me it doesnt work and i would still go against it because i have done it already. if you made good torque numbers with ur gsr stroked motor imagine what you would make with a longer stroke? although you made good numbers, doesnt mean it can't get better.
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I'm cooler than you
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If a LS rod is revved above 9k, even with ARPs, it will eventually oval. Period. The point it, you don't need a LS crank to make decent torque numbers. I make good torque numbers with a 87 mm crank because the build was thought out. I would rather have the security of knowing my engine will last than have the <2 lbs of torque increase and have to worry about spinning a rod.
Suppose one man fucks a sheep, I'm sure more than a million people would say it's wrong. He thinks it works because he did it. Who's wrong here? It works, but it can't possibly be the best.
Suppose one man fucks a sheep, I'm sure more than a million people would say it's wrong. He thinks it works because he did it. Who's wrong here? It works, but it can't possibly be the best.
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Honda-Tech > TampaRacing
TR "Old Skool EF" Member #666
All motor 1.8L: 201/140 More coming soon
I mount an balance 24" tires for $40 each.
It's alright if you don't agree with me. I can't force you to be right.
Honda-Tech > TampaRacing
TR "Old Skool EF" Member #666
All motor 1.8L: 201/140 More coming soon
I mount an balance 24" tires for $40 each.
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Thread Starter
mowchowbrowncow
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my buddies ls/v has been spinning like 9k for like 3 years now...& is still together & its even seen the bottle.
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Last edited by Ls_[eg]hatch; Jul 29, 2010 at 11:05 PM.
Registered User
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If a LS rod is revved above 9k, even with ARPs, it will eventually oval. Period. The point it, you don't need a LS crank to make decent torque numbers. I make good torque numbers with a 87 mm crank because the build was thought out. I would rather have the security of knowing my engine will last than have the <2 lbs of torque increase and have to worry about spinning a rod.
Suppose one man fucks a sheep, I'm sure more than a million people would say it's wrong. He thinks it works because he did it. Who's wrong here? It works, but it can't possibly be the best.
Suppose one man fucks a sheep, I'm sure more than a million people would say it's wrong. He thinks it works because he did it. Who's wrong here? It works, but it can't possibly be the best.
__________________
PM me for any AC, audio, and wiring work on your vehicle. Including but not limited to car audio, alarms, gauge installs, custom clusters, full troubleshooting, big/dual fuel pump relay kits, battery relocation, factory radio iPod and amplifier integration, custom harnesses, and custom standalone ecu installs and much more! If you need it done, we can do it! Don't be afraid to inquire!
PM me for any AC, audio, and wiring work on your vehicle. Including but not limited to car audio, alarms, gauge installs, custom clusters, full troubleshooting, big/dual fuel pump relay kits, battery relocation, factory radio iPod and amplifier integration, custom harnesses, and custom standalone ecu installs and much more! If you need it done, we can do it! Don't be afraid to inquire!
Last edited by MightyMaxGS-T; Jul 30, 2010 at 02:36 PM.
