You are an illiterate and an incompetent retard! I never said the bolt was "welded" in there? That would be custom240sx that said that... Maybe you are the stupid fuck who needs to "stick to learning how to read..."

Yes you moron, the stock shock has a nut WELDED to the back of the shock fork! There is no-way to hit a partially turned nut on the bolt!

If you knew what in the hell you were talking about instead of running your dick sucker maybe you could help someone with usefull information!

Don't try me little kid... I always win!
/ Check Mate!

 

OP, the only way you're going to get that off is if you use an impact gun... End of thread! If you dont use an impact gun, you will end up twisting the head of the bolt off! I will put money on it!!!

 

Have you tried a breaker bar? On my latest build I had an axle nut that snapped 2 breaker bars and bent another. Also snapped a socket. I wish I knew the pressure being put on it because I litterally had the B piping off my car maybe 6ft long on the end of the breaker bar and hung off of it and it wouldnt move. After a lot of heat and a can of PB blaster it finally broke loose. I would suggest heat and PB blaster then a breakr bar and stand on it. If that doesnt work impact is going to be your only other option. Good luck with that

 

Impact is what you need.....do not get a huge bar and just crank it, you will twist the head off. You need multiply small intense hits on it...if you don't have an impact then get a good impact socket and a 3-5lb sledge and hit it repeatedly. Small and heavy strokes. Also tighten the bolt back then loosen it....back and forth back and forth.

 

Also if not using an impact gun you can destroy the bushing...shit, you may still destroy it WITH the impact gun.

 

<Never used an impact gun and I have removed those bolts over a dozen times.

 

You've obviously never had a "siezed" up 92-95 Civic or 94+ Integra rear shock bolt have you? It's been said a couple of times already in this thread... If you crank down on the head of the bolt with extreme torque, YOU WILL BREAK THE HEAD OFF!!!

 

i used two different impact guns, one being a Snap-On that is krazy strong. it's what i use to remove seized main cap and head bolts with at the shop. i also attempted to use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 6 foot 2" piece of steel conduit over the top and that also did nothing. ask chevellefirebird (Nick) he was there. it started to destroy the head of the bolt but then the Snap-On socket i used stripped. each time i tried to turn it i sprayed PB Blaster on it for about 2-3 seconds.

i also tried hitting it (with the nut on) with a 5lbs sledge and even a 15lbs sledge to "shock" it free.

the only thing i have not done is to use a torch to heat it or even just cut it off and i'm not doing that.

and yes it was an impact socket.

 

Can you remove the other two bolts (one in the subframe and the other being in the rear brake assembly...) The entire thing should fall out (after you take-out the endlink bolt...) I don't know if this would help you but atleast the rear shock would be off of the car...

 

I need to know, is there a nut on the other side of that bolt.... or does it thread into the strut itself?? Like can you actualy take the nut off on the other side?? Because you said you put the nut on


Here is something you can try, I have done it.... and it worked. Worth a shot.

Go to Autozone and rent a balljoint pulling tool (they give yo the $$ back when your done using the tool).

You will need to use something hollow on the bolt side. Either use one of the hollow fitting in the kit or a socket, something thats bigger then the bolt so the bolt can be pressed out. Then start tightening down the bolt on the puller against the bolt untill you can turn it anymore, then take you sledge hammer and hit the big bolt on the puller in one good BIG blow... if that don' do it.... then im out of ideas.

I have done this once to remove a VERY frozen leaf spring bolt, and it worked great.