i was just able to get my hands on an eg coupe for a good price and was wondering if i went b16a2 with gsr pistons and a gsr head would that put me at about the right compression desired for either a boost build or nitrous build?

 

No. If your going with different pistons go for aftermarket low compression ones.

boost>spray, all day

 

fixed

 

^ I have a sc400 now with a v8 and its only like 250hp or something like that and i definitely love the low end torque! No more dropping 2 gears to go! But a 1.6 with 350whp vs a 4.6 even with 450whp or w/e you got the 1000lb lighter civic will be neck and neck*

*this scenario does not apply to GMs only ford mustardstains

 

my statement had to do with motors in general and you bring up the fact that a 350whp 2000 pound car will be neck and neck with a 450whp 3000 pound car?

i fail to see where your going with this. it had NOTHING to do with what i posted before you or what the OP posted

im simply saying that most people go the FI route whereas if i was him i would go spray. a properly setup low hp car (like mine) surprises the fuck out of people

if i had a honda itd be a bolt on k20 that would run 11s NA and 10s on spray (like my 4v will)

and then when the cash comes up port and cam job to go 10s NA and 9s on spray (speaking about either)

 

i have 28x hp

 

lol i was assuming it was the car in your sig....

I was basically saying fi>na when it comes to cost unless we go for larger displacement.

 

that IS my car in my sig

getting it done NA really doesnt cost that much more. once you get into h/c/i it can start to but a bolt on 4banger can easily run 12s

its so much more impressive to be able to hold your own all motor and then also be able to spray then having to attribute all your power to a turbo

 

damn i didnt know it could pop wheelies so easy! 280whp or is that the factory numbers?

 

For some odd reason he gets that alot. It is the car in the sig.

For putting down only 287rwhp (not the stock numbers, what it actually puts down), it is VERY efficient and makes the most out of its power.

When the time comes to spray it, it just may dip into the 10s (low 11s will be a given)



As for the N/A vs FI thing, it really depends on what hp the engine is capable of making and how many compromises your willing to make in order to make more power N/A.

With a small engine, FI is the way to go. It seems like 350whp is fairly easy to attain with a mild turbo set up. I dont even know if its possible out of a N/A B or K series.....Maybe if it is spun to 14k

Even in the domestics. Take the N/A 4.6 Cobras. They will make 255-270 rwhp stock and can make around 280-320 with bolt ons. They can run 11's @ 109-114 by putting it to the ground and keeping it in its RPM range.

Now if they wanted to make 400rwhp, it would take major mods which cost major $$$$ on a 4.6: like custom cams ($1000+ w/ springs), Ported heads ($1600-2400 depending on the amount of work and the valvetrain). Then labor to install the H/C setup is outragous (most pull the motor). The stock rotating assembly could be kept, but most will upgrade the pistons and rods to be able to spray.

So now they have a easy mid 11 second N/A car (10s if the car is dialed in right), and probably mid 10s with a decent shot (9s if dialed in).

BUT, to run those times, the car has top have a very steep gear, a lot of weight reduction, and a pretty rough idle with shitty low speed manners (bucking/surging).


Now instaed of going N/A, take that same car and slap a pro charger D1sc or a mild turbo on it. Keep the boost low like 8 lbs and it will make an easy 400 all day long. Build the bottom end, along with the proper supporting mods (mainly fuel system), and crank up the boost. 550n on straight pump gas is easy, tune aggressively with meth and 650+ is attainable. All while keeping perfect street manners (somewhat mild gearing, stock cams with a smooth idle and no surging..)

It really should be no different with a 4cyl. you can only go so far with porting the heads, bigger cams, shorter runner intakes...etc.
You will eventually hit a wall and the engine will not make any more power.
The same goes for a boosted app, but as long as the bottom end will take it, you can keep the head(s) down, and it has all the fuel needed, you can keep cramming more air in it.



The way I look at it, if you can afford it, go forced induction, you wont regret it.