i wish it were as easy as those directions..but like i said the gauge only has these wires on it...and i found a daig. for it somewhere that expained it like this:
Red - 12v
black - ground
orange - signal +
brown - signal -
and the blue and white wires are signal output wires.
Those are the only 6 wires on the thing...theres not like a harness that has 4 wires on it for power ground and signal and another harness for the sensor...just those 6 wires like in the picture...which is what doesn't make any sense to me and where i keep getting caught up

 

Are you seriously going to say I don't know a damn thing? My god...I would like to drive my car over to your damn house and show you via my fucking laptop through innovates own program how accurate my "useless" narrow band gauge is. Your a fucking idiot and should do your research and know what you are talking about before opening your damn mouth.

My "useless" narrow band will accurately read whatever voltage I program my lc-1 for. And to my knowledge only the auto meter narrow band will work like this with the lc-1. Wow I can't believe you just completely put me down as negatively as you did without me even saying a damn bad thing about you and with you obviously not doing your research.

And the narrow band gauge will only read wideband BY using a LC-1 wideband system because it has programmable voltage outputs that correlate to A/F ratios. I am not saying my gauge is as accurate as his wideband one is but I am saying it does read correct A/F values and is dead on to my wideband display on my laptop while I am tuning the car.

And I wasn't being "ghetto" by doing that...I simply use it just to monitor the a/f's while driving around because it gives me a very close reading as to what the actual ratio is. I do NOT tune off the gauge. The gauge is displaying a condensed wideband signal which makes it fairly accurate just not as accurate as a full wideband display. The gauge was sitting around my house so I just hooked it up so I can see close to what a/f I am running at all times.

People like you Froto give tech websites a bad name...you wonder why people are afraid to ask questions because uneducated people like yourself will post negatively about everything they say. I am done with you trying to add "useless" info to all of my posts and from now on am just going to act like you don't have a damn screenname on here.

To the original poster....


Using the narrowband gauge for a wideband gauge isn't the best thing you can do I just use mine because it was sitting around my house and basically it is just a warning light for me in case the motor decides to go lean or something while in boost.

As for your wiring issue...the signal outputs are for you to loop the signal into a separate machine most likely like a datalogger or something of that nature. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor already in the car? You will wire the red wire to an ignition 12v source, the black will be to a good chassis ground, the orange and brown wire goes to the wideband sensor and will connect to the positive and negative leads of this sensor. Do not worry about using the signal output wires...tape them off. You can use a multi meter to test for the signal output and ground wires on the o2 sensor. I do not have the color for them as I use the wires coming off my lc-1 controller and do not tap directly to the sensor.

 

Guys, the op is trying to tell us that his aem gauge isn't like the uego gauge we know. Our uegos have a white 4 wire clip and a white 6 wire clip. One is the power harness the other is the sensor harness.

Of you look at his pic you will see that his gauge does not look like that from the back. Something is up here. Either its a fake gauge or its a oldschool gauge either way stop bickering

 

I did respond to the original poster at the end of my post...I would venture to say it is an old school aem gauge.