Guys I don't know about you guys but i don't torque rods. Use a stretch bolt indicator instead is a lot more accurate. Not only that eagle rods already come over torqued from factory.

 

yea i don't own a stretch bolt indicator, Eagle over torque the rod bolts to stretch them so the customer don't have to do it, i torque the rod bolts none of the motors i built never broke,

 

funny thing is I have a bone stock Z6 here that looks exactly the same and when I was returning the owner of the local honda dealers car I asked a bunch of the techs there and they say its common on the Z6 to wipe rod 1 and 3 bearings do to a change in the oil journals in the Z6 cranks. If you compare all the D16 cranks side by side they all have 2 oil holes in each rod throw except the Z6 crank.

 

so i guess im not gonna use a z6 crank for my next build...do you have any pics comparing them?

 

OK I stand to correct myself it is the D16Y crank that has only one oil hole per rod throw sorry about that. One of the things that I do to help with oiling the rods is to mod the oil pump by adding a .025-.035 shim between the relief valve and the pressure spring.

 

he's was using one of my modified oil pumps, shimmed, ported, and a bigger oil gears, oil pressure was at 180psi with no turbo mounted, i think that is more than enough to lubricate the crank, rods and other components, yea z6's and y8's suffer from oil distribution problems

 

180 psi is through the roof I try to not exceed 100psi, I have found alot of times at sustained high rpm that the oil pressure will bounce up and down in the logs. The only thing we can come up with is that at high rpm and the high pressure the oil will tend to fill the top end and not return fast enough to the oil pan and the pump will have some cavitation.

 

sounds like a bigger better pan will solve that problem.

 

moroso oil pan

 

with the turbo installed the oil pressure drops to 108psi all my motors and customer motors run big oil pans anyways