and the oilpump?

 

How long did you run the motor? If you fed water into the crankcase, you have a big cleanup to do and often your bearings are shot once water gets to them. It breaks the oil film between journal and bearing surface, causing scoring. I've seen scored bearins just from a little water getting in the oil from a head gasket leak. Can't imagine what you have.

Point is, you can't imagine what you have, either. I'd strip the motor down, clean and inspect, but if you won't/can't, I would pull the pan, clean it out, put it back, change oil and filter, start for 10 or 15 seconds, drain oil and repeat at least a couple of times, checking the drained oil in a clear glass jar each time until you are happy with what you see.

You have to consider every galley and orifice of that engine has water in it. Spraying what you can see with cleaner is like trying to clean out your urinary tract by taking a shower.

 

Do not spray carb cleaner into the head. You will destroy your valve stem seals.

If you don't want to tear the motor down try doing alot of oil changes. Like at least 5 or six before you even take it out of the driveway. You can cap that coolant hose if you want and make sure you run your pcv lines correctly this time.

Personally I'd be pretty concerned about the bearings also. I'd pull the pan and check them out. You can replace main and rod bearings without pulling the motor but it is a pain in the ass to do the mains.

 

i cleaned the motor out today.
got the consistency down to a somewhat clear level after 10mins of idling in the garage with new oil and oil stabilizer and no cooalant.

then i drained it out and swapped the filter.

the interesting part is that the 10-30 and type-2 coolant mix from yesterday that i put into a cup didnt separate. it is just a watery, mayonnaise-like lotion. the motor fires right up each time w/o hesitation and doesnt have any crap happening to it.

i pulled the oil pan and popped off rod cap No.1 and the bearing looked like i just put it in. and the wall was clean as a whistle. i didnt find any rust or anything destructive(still has my 45' crosshatch as well.

as far as getting all the crap totally out; i am planning on running the motor mildly here and there allowing the leftover coolant to separate and/or dissipate from the oil. then i'll follow up with another change in like 3 weeks.

the engine is responding well and is acting like nothing ever happened. the coolant is no longer getting into the oil, and its remaining full in the rad.

because the motor was only run for less than 6 minutes before when all this happened and it wasnt even up to operating temp, and i didnt find any sign of bad news to the bearings(guess the "watery mayonnaise" was a decent consistency), i think all will be well and i will keep updating this thread as i go in case this happens to someone else.

its good to know that my attention to major detail everywhere else paid off, and i only got screwed by a stupid 1/8id hose mix-up.

 

Why be satisfied with somewhat clear oil. Why take a chance on a motor you've sunk money into? $14 for oil and filter. When it comes out clear and clean, you know your oil is not contaminated.

Also, the motors I've stripped after head gasket leaks all had scored main bearings. Rod bearings were fine. In fact, have one in the shop right now. Guy ran it only a few minutes with a blown head gasket after he rebuilt it with new bearings. All rod bearings were perfect. Two of five mains were scored.

Would assume it has to do with the dynamics of crank runout, flex and balance issues that wobble the crank through the main tunnels.

You may be fine, just saying it would be wiser to assume the oil is OK the first time it comes out clean and clear.

 

bad head gasket was there condensation coming from the muffler or a foamy yellow build up on the oil cap

 

head gasket is fine, just had the small water line from the back of the thermo going into the pcv nipple on the block.

all i can do is keep changing the oil every week and running it mildly here and there. its already come a LONG way.

 

i have found an off the shelf product that actually does what it says it will do.

Rislone(sp) its 4.99 at discount and in a yellow bottle.

i put one quart of this stuff with 3.2 quarts of reg discount oil(to flush the system) and after driving the car to work and back, all of the milky, lotion-like oil is totally gone from the head and oil pan!

the system is 100% clear now and ready for some more break in before i give it to John to rape on the dyno.

hope this thread will come in handy if someone else does this in the future.