lol, what can I say, cant nobody out talk u and me in H22 stuff LOLOL. I just got to it first

 

When you take the H23 stock bottom end and mate it to H22 head its a nice combo but to say that it's safe to then turn it to 8k and think its wise to run with an OEM ecu and no "tuning" not that I think any amount of "tuning" will relieve the stress thats on the main bearings. The h23 bottom end red lines some where around 6200-6500 rpm. Right? The H22 is set to 7500 which on paper is only a 1000 more at the most. I know it's been done and lots of people have been successfully in doing so however The H22 is engineered to spin to the 7500 which is why it has bigger main's at 55mm verses the 50mm on the H23. Now He can get away with doing so if he'd like by all means if he's got the funds he might as well get that extra bump in displacement it just won't that the OEM reliability and really nobody likes to dish out extra money for an engine when they don't have to. If this is this guy's daily driver that he'll ocassionally romp on at the track It'd be a better idea to get an H22 Keep the H23 that you already have then when the income tax check comes in get a Vtec head for it or get tear it down and put some internals in it. Hell if you just going to farting around the neighborhood use the money to toss on some bolt-on's. He'll be happy either way he goes just as long as Mr. Brownguy06 know's what he's doing and I think you'll find plenty of h22 Knowlage 'round here to keep things safe. And if your reallly itchin for that displacement boost you could always keep the h23 then sleeve and bore it instead of getting the displacement from the stroke.

 

Well anyone that wants to modify a car without proper tuning is an idiot to begin with. LOL

Thats a given.

Secondly your wrong about the 50mm main thing.

Because the the 55mm mains were only introduced in 98 and up. All the previous H22s have the same 50 mains.

You allways want to make your displacement in the Stroke and keep it safe. I wouldnt go over 88mm bore to keep it reliable and be able to fix problems later down the road.

Your argument here has a point but its still wrong. Any motor with work done could be concidered to be unreliable. Since its no longer OEM spec.

 

yea you guys i would like to take the lude on the track but there people out here where i live that have hatch's that are telling me that the prelude is way to heavy to race and that once i get it running no matter what i put in it im going to be dissapointed because even though the prelude may be fast im always going to be passed up by a hatch or coupe...thats why i came to yall about horse power from these motors..and dont worry the lude is just a project car im planning on putting alot of money into it. and during income tax i can get alot of stuff done that you guys were talking about. so all the advice that you guys are giving me is great.

 

Yes the prelude is a heavy car, your allways going to need to make more power to be able to keep up and beat lighter cars. All Motor the fastest ive seen a prelude run so far was a 13.0 makign 235 WHP Hell be able to break 12s no doubt. Thats a H23 bottom with a h22 head, 14:1 compression and Skunk 2 Pro 3 cams. Obviously alot more is done but thats the basic build.

Its all a matter of opinion

 

now imagine that motor in a hatch!!!^^^

 

i know lolol i allrdy told my buddy to let me borrow it next season

 

yayyyyy......i like h series yayyyyyyyyy

 

AH I wasn't aware that the Pre-98 H22's had 50mm mains, I guess I just took it into assumption as mine is newer than a 98. I can see the point as is not wanting to bore the block to inches of its life however at what point can we say that the stroke would be limiting the engine's ability to spin? I'm thinking outloud here in terms of Side walls stress from the rod to stroke ratio.

I'll tell you from expierence that racing a prelude really has to be something your wanting to do because of the aforementioned, lighter cars with the same power or less are going to be faster because of weight, However depending on what kind of racing your doing it may not matter to much if your limited by curb weight regulations because of the H22 power plant. I autocross my Lude pretty sucessfully although when it comes to other cars like say a Miata I REALLY have to push the car hard to keep up with them in the twisties even with a full boogie suspension. An S2k will take my lunch money all day long with a good driver. There are plenty of other cars you can put your money in and get far better results, don't get me wrong I love my Honda. If you were just planning on doing a drag car-I would'nt the lude wasn't ment to be a drag car it was more of a touring car. But hey its up to you what you want to do with it, I went for an all around great performing vehicle with a nice suspension that is at home at the track and on the street with a little pump of power when I feel like playing. How fast you go is directly proportional to the size of your wallet.

 

you make a great point there i want somthing fast and nice you know what i mean i would like to put money into it but then again the more money i put into it some one can come up with a smaller car and own my ass like i was standing still and i kind of understand that i just really like the body of the lude and i think that it would be a good all around car.