thanks for all the info..imma see how money is once i sell things..if i can afford a direct port..of course ill get it..if not single fogger will have to do for the time being...especially if i get a single fogger wet kit ina trade..

 

Here are my setups.



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Cylinder one would burn out first because of the way the air flows inside the intake manifold. The fogger would be pointed toward the driver side strut therefore most of the nitrous mix would enter cylinder one then two and so on.

 

i dont know about the gas but i might be in need of a turbo as soon as i get my car to the shop. what is it and how much?

 

so you sayin since the air and nitrous is coming in the intake manifold so fast it would go all the way to the end of the manifold by passing 4,3 and two "mostly" and hit one with most spray then after hitting the end and one consuming the spray 2 will get some then 3 the four will get the least?

 

Basically...all the nitrous is doing is freezing a set amount of air...well once that air shoots into the manifold it does NOT distribute evenly therefore most of the frozen air will cram into cylinder one then two then three then four because it will choose the path of least resistance when trying to squeeze into the cylinders...with direct port the nitrous is freezing air in the runners which gives equal amounts of nitrous to all cylinders which in turn allows all cylinders to have pretty close to the same pressure in them so that cylinder one isn't working overtime to help cylinder four keep up. When that happens in a single fogger system you put more wear on cylinder one because it is trying to do double work. That is about the simplist terms I can put it in.

 

old renegade is just sayin u got it backwards as far as the cylinders...since the 1st cylinder it would enter is #4..

 

In a honda it goes.....dizzy #4 #3 #2 #1....so it would hit number one first unless you had the nozzle pointed directly to #4 cylinder. If you look at the way air flows in an intake manifold it will flow easier to cylinder one. I am just saying this because if you take any STOCK block/pistons and do a compression test after running a few 75 shots bottles through it you will see a semi lower compression in cylinder 1 then 2 then 3 then 4 working its way up. This tells me that more nitrous is entering cylinder one then any other cylinder therefore burning up the rings quicker.

 

alright dude, you are just fucking cluttering this shit up with absolutely useless info here.

the reason the wet single nozzle kits usually burn up number 4 (YES..NUMBER 4!) is because it is the furthest away from the throttle body and it doesnt get the fuel as well as it gets the nitrous, so the mix can become substantially lean.


the nitrous isn't freezing the air. air doesn't freeze. please explain how the nitrous doesnt distribute properly because the fogger nozzles were named that for a reason...they fog the nitrous in the intake track prior to reaching the TB. your whole theory is based on all the cylinders pulling air at the same time...which they are not.

as for cylinders...there is no artificial intelligence built into them saying one is making too little power, so this one should make more to compensate. at 2000rpm...cylinder 1, cylinder 2, cylinder 3, and omg yes, even cylinder 4, are all making 2000 ignitions a minute.

alright...to still play along with your little theory that all your cylinders are pulling air at the same exact time...how does a 90* bend make it easier to get to cyl #1? granted it is the closest, but given your theory of how all of this works, there will be a vacuum formed right there as the air comes into the manifold and makes that hefty hard right hand turn.

im sure by the wonderful advice you've so graciously blessed us with, if we did take any block you setup with stock pistons and all, im sure there would be quite a noticeable pressure drop.
























anyways,


fucking tits dude..thats a pretty 2 stage, especially the NOSZLE setup. i must ask, how are you liking those nylon holley lines? have you had any issues with the fuel side yet? i never got around to calling them about it, but these are a GREAT improvement and economical compared to the hassle of bending tubing, or buying a bunch of short steel braided lines.

 

flat out, do a direct kit if you can afford it.

always check your lines, and put a filter inline...just because you have a direct kit setup on your ride does not mean it is fail proof...littlest spec of dirt especially on the fuel side of a jet thats only compensating for 20-30hp can cause you a nightmare. always check your plugs, they can tell you if you've been pinging, on the ragged edge, or clean as a whistle. also invest in all of your safety equipment. like fuel pressure safety switches, oil pressure safety switches, bottle heater (or a push system, which i prefer), window switch, etc. don't 1/2 ass it.