That is a good start. They seem to like to run the exhaust cam at two degrees more than the intake. That will also help to assure you have decent valve to valve clearance. How much has your head been milled or block been decked? It would probably help you out alot to have those cams degreed in to their correct specs.

 

Honestly I dont know how/dont have the tools to degree the cams. The head was milled .04mm and the block wasn't decked not by me at least.

 

If we're slow at work tomorrow I do a compression test

 

damn that really sucks..would of though ud definitely hit higher then that..im sure some good tuning and small tinkering will net u the hp ur lacking..

 

Yea I know the header and exhaust are definatley holding me back, and I'm sure a pro series intake manifold and larger t/b wouldn't hurt either along with a dyno tune. But honestly I'd hate to dump so much more money into the car just for maybe 15-20 more hp and I know it's not gonna be everything I expect it too. I'm starting to get the fever for boost and I'm getting the feeling I would have been so much happier if I did that in the beginning.

 

Are you sure on the units for the .04mm, that is like .0015" which is not a number most machine shops would deck to. If it was 0.4mm then that would be .015" which makes more sense. In that case I'd try advancing the setup a bit to maybe +2 Intake, +4 exhaust. You can try moving them around a bit like that, keeping the exhaust 2 degrees more advanced than the intake cam. Don't run the intake cam more than +4 if you didn't check the piston to valve clearances. And the degrees I'm talking about are crank degrees so that would be 1 mark = 2 two crank degrees on most cam gears.

 

thats what i figured out in my high comp build..and i stated previously in this build thread..its fast and fun..but nothing like what u want in the end..

 

I didn't ask for the head to be milled but when I picked up the guy that I talked to told me they milled it slightly (he said either four thousandths or forty thousandths) I wasn't really paying attention as I was looking it over. But then again one day I was told a retainer was flawed and I had to get another one from skunk2 and the next I was told my head was ready, so I went to pick it up and the guy looked at me like I was stupid and asked if I had another retainer, so who knows if the head was even milled in the first place. I just looked over the receipt and if they did mill it they didn't charge me for it. I really don't like playing with the cam gears because one I really dont know what I'm doing when it comes to that and two I know the if I adjust one too far motors aren't too forgiving.

 

If you need your cams degreed in in the future I have the fixture and equipment to do so or you can take a chance on the dyno and I can give the tuner some of the settings I believe would be safe to try based on what I've seen from degreeing these cams in on another setup similar to yours.

 

I took a comp test when i had it....it was LOW from what i usually see. dont remember the exact numbers. also i belive both cams were advanced because u had no midrange power. If you have ever ridden in my cars you will know that torque comes first. That why i really didnt like these cams, but hey its not my car. All the motors i have built/dynoed had 140+ torque.