+1 On the Thermal it sounds great. Now as far as doing an N/A on a B16A what’s the point? There is no torque what so ever. You can N/A all you want and then an Ls powered CRX pulls up with a B16A tyranny and smokes you for way less the cost. I say turbo that bad boy, but do it right. If you really want some help call John at LHT he is one of the best Honda guys I know and can point you in the right direction. Here is his web site. http://www.lhtperformance.net/



Summit is where I get allot of my stuff. They are not always the cheapest but I get my parts on time in the mail, and they almost always have it in stock.



Now Turboing a car is not CHEEP so this may not be the way you want to go. There is always NOS, but that will beat the motor down little by little.

You need to start with one thing, get that done then move on to the next. Like, start at the suspenshion. Get some good springs, struts, sway bars, traction bar, Urathan bushings (not a must). From there to go fast you need to stop fast. Do your brakes, rotors pads braded lines. Now its time for the motor work. I hope this helps some. As for prices just go to http://store.summitracing.com/ Type in the car you have and get your prices from there. Good luck!!!

O yeah and if you need help with installs I live in Zephryhills but I am always willing to help out a fellow Honda guy.

 

dont even think about turbo or s/c if you dont have the dough... Nitrous will be cost friendly. Maybe look into a walbro 255 fuel pump, a fuel pressure regulator, bigger injectors, convert to obd1 for tuning, and put a nitrous kit on. Even that is going to cost you a bit of money. Here is an approximate cost. I may be leaving some shit out.

walbro fuel pump $100
fuel pressure regulator $50
DSM 450 injectors and resistor box $100 (?)
OBD1 ecu chipped, $150ish
OBD1 distributer $100ish
Nitrous kit $250-500ish
tuning around $200
spark plugs and other stuff.

i'm probably missing stuff anyone can feel free to chip in.

 

^^^ what this guy said..

Nitrous kit FOR TEH WIN!!

If you wanna go fast on not alot of $$ Nitrous is your best friend..just make sure you have Ignition ..MSD stuff.etc.. and fuel stuff for sure.That's the main thing with Nitrous.geting fuel ..it's better to have more then you need then not enuff fuel so stuff don't go ...KAABOOM ..+1 on geting it tuned.

If you get it set-up right i'd go with 50-75 shot only!...inless you feel like spending more $$ tearing into the motor..

 

Here's other thing's I listed off the top of my head that you could do to.

-V-tec Controller
-Chiped Ecu
-Strut bar's front & rear
-LCA's
-Short Shifter/Knob
-Some nice racing seat's/Type-R's, Bride's..etc..
-Harness & harness Bar
-Carbonfiber hood
-LIGHTWAIGHT Flywheel should of been done with clutch/
-Free! Make your ef Lose some pound's !
-Nardi Steering wheel/Hub/ Quik release
-New MSD Spark plug Wire's !
-New Light Waight battery
-Brembo Slotted Brake rotor's/Stainless Line's
-Intake Manifold/big bore Throttle Bodie
-Cam Gear's
-Light waight Pully's..etc.
-koyo Radiator /Slim line fan's
-LSD etc..No use in making power if you can't put it to the ground.
-Slick's/ Track rim's Bogart's ..etc..
-Light waight Rear Hatch lexen pexiGlass/side's
-KILL Switch!
-Real HID's! Help you see better at night.
-Grounding wire kit
-Gauge's



Well that's everything I could name off the top of my head I'm sure I'm missing stuff lol...

 

wow, how many of you have actually used nitrous? you dont need all that stuff....i have a COMPLETLEY STOCK fuel system with the exception of a B&M FPR and a FP guage, i have ENDYN pistons, and Crower cams other than that my motor is 100% bone stock....i had 120shot wet on my car with NO PROBLEMS AT ALL....it at one point it had an 85shot DRY with NO PROBLEMS....in about a total of 6 months the car went through 2 sets of spark plugs. so dont go buy all this stuff becuase someone said you HAVE to have it.....dont get me wrong it would be "safer" to an extint i guess, but its nothing that you absolutley have to have as long as you do everything right....

 

Better safe then sorry ..Nitrous isn't nothing you should F*ck around with Slap on and Just Call it a day inless you want something to go wrong..

I would atleast upgrade some Ignition/fuel stuff and tune it ..

I like to be on the safe side,on the other hand if you didn't do those step's in the long run something is going to happen ..

You can't just slap on a 100shot on and expect nothing will happen over time.. on a stock motor without tearing into the motor..

 

id take out the b16 bottem end use the pr3 pistons and get an ls bottom end throw in some arp rod bolts and call it a day..atleast thats what i did with mine..for the most part..but take it to someone who KNOWS what they are doin..i just had mine built spent 1500 and spun a rod bearin in 150 miles..so now i have to have it rebuilt...also u can sell ur b16 bottom end and make some money back..

 

i have ENDYN pistons, and Crower cams other than that my motor is 100% bone stock

LOL, That is the main parts of the motor that really make it stock. Intake, headers, pullys thats still kinda stock. Cams and Pistons is not stock, and at 120 it is only a matter of time till BOOM!!! You have to upgrade your fuel, its the aftermarket pistons that is keeping you shit together.

 

I was talking to that YBlegal guy..

 

You're right I have never used nitrous, but I figured since NO2 is basically just giving you more oxygen to burn, you would need to match it up with enough fuel.

On a side note:

Is there a reason that everyone says nitrous is really that bad for the motor? I may be missing somthing here but isnt it the same as a turbo or s/c in that your forcing more oxygen and fuel to be burned? How is it more dangerous? (sorry for the thread jack dude)