auto - 5 speed conversion
USMC
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,277
Likes: 0
um, not worth the money at all, but i know how you feel about loving your car. my car was previously an auto and i had it converted, it takes alot of parts, time, and money. if i had it to do over again, i would have sold my car and got a standard. here is the list
Parts List:
1. 5 speed transmission (F22, F23, H22, H23)
2. 5 speed starter (90-02 Accord 92-02 Prelude)
3. 5 speed shifter assembly w/ shifter cables (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
4. 5 speed drivers side axle (your year accord, but from 5-spd version)
5. 5 speed intermediate shaft (your year accord, but from 5-spd version)
6. 5 speed clutch pedal assembly (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
7. 5 speed brake pedal arm (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
8. Clutch master cylinder w/ reservoir (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
9. Clutch line from Clutch master cylinder to clutch dampener (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
10. Clutch dampener assembly (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
11. Clutch line from Clutch dampener to 5 speed tranny (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
12. Clutch line from 5 speed tranny to slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
13. Slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
14. Clutch (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude)
15. Flywheel (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude)
16. 5 speed mount (Your year, 5-spd version)
17. 5 speed mount bracket (go to honda - tell them to look for the bracket that is welded on the car - part is S.O.P and costs 15-25.00) (see notes)
18. MIG WELDER (see notes)
19. BOLTS: 8 Flywheel Bolts, 6 Pressure Plate Bolts, 3 Intermediate Shaft Bolts, 1 Long Tranny Bolt
20. Recommended: HELMS Service Manual (www.helminc.com)
Instructions on how to convert your car to 5 speed:
Disconnect the battery. Remove it, the battery tray and the air intake to gain working room. (Distributor helps also) Raise the front of the car up in the air, support it on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Drain auto transmission fluid. Remove the axle nut (36mm). (note: this nut is at 180 lb-ft, the best way to remove the bolt is to put an extension pipe on the socket wrench you are using, works great, have someone stomp on the brakes as you loosen it) Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut (17mm) on both sides. Take a floor jack and start to raise the car up on the lower knuckle so the ball joint pops out. When it does remove the axles. To pry the axles from the tranny, insert a decent size flat head screwdriver in-between the axle and the tranny, then just pop it. It will pop out of socket, then you can pull it out the rest of the way. Be sure to keep pressure on the ends of the axles because if the cv joints come apart its not fun putting them back together. Remove the passenger side radius rod (suspension piece right under the tranny) When that's done start removing the wire harnesses connected to the tranny. Remove the starter from the tranny. Remove the torque converter cover and the tranny cable from underneath the tranny. Now you have to remove each of the 8 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. This is done 1 or 2 at a time, and then you must rotate the crank to get to the next couple. Make sure you have something holding the tranny (jack or lift) Remove the tranny bell housing bolts and remove the tranny mount. Drop the tranny slowly. Be careful because it's heavy. Remove the 8 bolts holding the flex plate to the block. They are 17 mm 12 point sockets. Then bolt up the flywheel using the NEW bolts you got, because the flex plate bolts are too short.
Remove the center console in the car, disconnect the shifter assembly and the cables attached. Remove the brake pedal arm (there is a spring at the top - keep it) remove the plate that's covering the clutch master cylinder access. Take up passenger side carpet and remove the a/t control unit Unplug it - you don't need it anymore. Replace the ECU with the 5-speed version at the same time.
Bolt all the hydraulic lines linking the clutch master cylinder to the tranny, then to the slave cylinder.
(Cut off the old tranny mount before putting the new tranny into the engine bay.)* Install the tranny in reverse order of removal. Weld the 5 speed tranny mount onto the car. Then run the shift linkage cables from the inside of the car to the top/rear of the tranny. Connect these where they belong and put the cotter pins on to keep them on the right places. Install the old auto passenger side axle and the new intermediate shaft into the tranny. Bolt the intermediate shaft hanger to the block using the new bolts. Then install the new drivers side axle. Put the axles into the hubs and reinstall the balljoint that was taken apart. Then have your friend stand on the brakes again so you can tighten the axle nuts. Install the new manual tranny starter. You will need the long bolt that goes through the starter then through the tranny and into the block. Connect the power cable to the starter and the ground cable to the tranny. You might have to pull the clips off of the cables to get them to reach, no biggie.
Wiring:
Method 1: Now its time to make the car start, first off start by taking the 2 nuts holding the white part on the automatic shifter and plug the 2 wire in that need to go where they belong (brown plug and a long white plug) Then tuck them in somewhere next - put in neutral and hope the car starts, if it does have fun you now have completed the impossible just to correct...
Method 2: I did not remove the a/t control unit, no need to, just extra time to do it. There is also some more wiring that I had to do, maybe because I didn't pull the computer, not sure. When you pull the auto shifter assembly, there will be 4 or so harnesses left laying there. On one harness (on the drivers side, I think it was the biggest connector on that side) I connected pin # 2 (green) to pine #5 (counting sraight accross, left to right) brown or black, not sure, its a ground I think, and the other harness I had to modify was also on the drivers side of the shifter assembly, its two bigger guage wires, I just connected them together. These two harnesses control the kill starter (makes sure car is not in gear when you start it) and the other makes it so you can take your keys out of the ignition, basically, I tricked the computer into thinking it is always in park.
{my method coming soon}
Notes:
Mounts #1: I did not have to modify any mounts, but I used a 94 H23 tranny and motor when I did mine, not the accord tranny. The only modification I had to make to the engine bay was the rear support beam, I had to grind off about 1/2"X1.5" so this little bracket/bolt thing wouldn't hit it, nothing a grinder didn't take care of.
Mounts #2: I put my H23 tranny in with a F23A1 engine and did not need to modify any mounts. Of course the engine was a little off to the drivers side, and there were some clearance issues. But those were solved with some trimming of the crank pulley and the absence of A/C.
Mounts #3: The mount on the 5th gen Accords is the same for the manual and automatic versions so no modifications are required.
Parts List:
1. 5 speed transmission (F22, F23, H22, H23)
2. 5 speed starter (90-02 Accord 92-02 Prelude)
3. 5 speed shifter assembly w/ shifter cables (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
4. 5 speed drivers side axle (your year accord, but from 5-spd version)
5. 5 speed intermediate shaft (your year accord, but from 5-spd version)
6. 5 speed clutch pedal assembly (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
7. 5 speed brake pedal arm (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
8. Clutch master cylinder w/ reservoir (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
9. Clutch line from Clutch master cylinder to clutch dampener (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
10. Clutch dampener assembly (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
11. Clutch line from Clutch dampener to 5 speed tranny (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
12. Clutch line from 5 speed tranny to slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
13. Slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
14. Clutch (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude)
15. Flywheel (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude)
16. 5 speed mount (Your year, 5-spd version)
17. 5 speed mount bracket (go to honda - tell them to look for the bracket that is welded on the car - part is S.O.P and costs 15-25.00) (see notes)
18. MIG WELDER (see notes)
19. BOLTS: 8 Flywheel Bolts, 6 Pressure Plate Bolts, 3 Intermediate Shaft Bolts, 1 Long Tranny Bolt
20. Recommended: HELMS Service Manual (www.helminc.com)
Instructions on how to convert your car to 5 speed:
Disconnect the battery. Remove it, the battery tray and the air intake to gain working room. (Distributor helps also) Raise the front of the car up in the air, support it on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Drain auto transmission fluid. Remove the axle nut (36mm). (note: this nut is at 180 lb-ft, the best way to remove the bolt is to put an extension pipe on the socket wrench you are using, works great, have someone stomp on the brakes as you loosen it) Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut (17mm) on both sides. Take a floor jack and start to raise the car up on the lower knuckle so the ball joint pops out. When it does remove the axles. To pry the axles from the tranny, insert a decent size flat head screwdriver in-between the axle and the tranny, then just pop it. It will pop out of socket, then you can pull it out the rest of the way. Be sure to keep pressure on the ends of the axles because if the cv joints come apart its not fun putting them back together. Remove the passenger side radius rod (suspension piece right under the tranny) When that's done start removing the wire harnesses connected to the tranny. Remove the starter from the tranny. Remove the torque converter cover and the tranny cable from underneath the tranny. Now you have to remove each of the 8 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. This is done 1 or 2 at a time, and then you must rotate the crank to get to the next couple. Make sure you have something holding the tranny (jack or lift) Remove the tranny bell housing bolts and remove the tranny mount. Drop the tranny slowly. Be careful because it's heavy. Remove the 8 bolts holding the flex plate to the block. They are 17 mm 12 point sockets. Then bolt up the flywheel using the NEW bolts you got, because the flex plate bolts are too short.
Remove the center console in the car, disconnect the shifter assembly and the cables attached. Remove the brake pedal arm (there is a spring at the top - keep it) remove the plate that's covering the clutch master cylinder access. Take up passenger side carpet and remove the a/t control unit Unplug it - you don't need it anymore. Replace the ECU with the 5-speed version at the same time.
Bolt all the hydraulic lines linking the clutch master cylinder to the tranny, then to the slave cylinder.
(Cut off the old tranny mount before putting the new tranny into the engine bay.)* Install the tranny in reverse order of removal. Weld the 5 speed tranny mount onto the car. Then run the shift linkage cables from the inside of the car to the top/rear of the tranny. Connect these where they belong and put the cotter pins on to keep them on the right places. Install the old auto passenger side axle and the new intermediate shaft into the tranny. Bolt the intermediate shaft hanger to the block using the new bolts. Then install the new drivers side axle. Put the axles into the hubs and reinstall the balljoint that was taken apart. Then have your friend stand on the brakes again so you can tighten the axle nuts. Install the new manual tranny starter. You will need the long bolt that goes through the starter then through the tranny and into the block. Connect the power cable to the starter and the ground cable to the tranny. You might have to pull the clips off of the cables to get them to reach, no biggie.
Wiring:
Method 1: Now its time to make the car start, first off start by taking the 2 nuts holding the white part on the automatic shifter and plug the 2 wire in that need to go where they belong (brown plug and a long white plug) Then tuck them in somewhere next - put in neutral and hope the car starts, if it does have fun you now have completed the impossible just to correct...
Method 2: I did not remove the a/t control unit, no need to, just extra time to do it. There is also some more wiring that I had to do, maybe because I didn't pull the computer, not sure. When you pull the auto shifter assembly, there will be 4 or so harnesses left laying there. On one harness (on the drivers side, I think it was the biggest connector on that side) I connected pin # 2 (green) to pine #5 (counting sraight accross, left to right) brown or black, not sure, its a ground I think, and the other harness I had to modify was also on the drivers side of the shifter assembly, its two bigger guage wires, I just connected them together. These two harnesses control the kill starter (makes sure car is not in gear when you start it) and the other makes it so you can take your keys out of the ignition, basically, I tricked the computer into thinking it is always in park.
{my method coming soon}
Notes:
Mounts #1: I did not have to modify any mounts, but I used a 94 H23 tranny and motor when I did mine, not the accord tranny. The only modification I had to make to the engine bay was the rear support beam, I had to grind off about 1/2"X1.5" so this little bracket/bolt thing wouldn't hit it, nothing a grinder didn't take care of.
Mounts #2: I put my H23 tranny in with a F23A1 engine and did not need to modify any mounts. Of course the engine was a little off to the drivers side, and there were some clearance issues. But those were solved with some trimming of the crank pulley and the absence of A/C.
Mounts #3: The mount on the 5th gen Accords is the same for the manual and automatic versions so no modifications are required.
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TR happily married crew-member #2
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TR happily married crew-member #2
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All Im saying is, for the money and labor you put into making the car stick. You can literally BUY the manual version of your car, for around the same. Then you will have 2 cars. One for modding and one for driving around daily.
This has a nice bennefit of when your "race" car breaks, you still have the auto for getting to work on time.
This has a nice bennefit of when your "race" car breaks, you still have the auto for getting to work on time.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
prelude shifter, boot, shift knob $30
firewall hydro line $10
clutch resovoir $10
a piece that goes from the end of the firewall line that has a hose going to the tranny $10
driver side axle and mid-shaft $50
pedal assembly and clutch pedal $30
so for about 100-150 it can be done(if u already have the tranny)
firewall hydro line $10
clutch resovoir $10
a piece that goes from the end of the firewall line that has a hose going to the tranny $10
driver side axle and mid-shaft $50
pedal assembly and clutch pedal $30
so for about 100-150 it can be done(if u already have the tranny)
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