The dc 4-1 jdm itr replica header is great for the money.
It works & widthstands a beating from being so low to the ground

 

the goal is just to break 13s. id be happy with a 13.9. i havent ran the track yet. it was tuned a few months ago at 173whp. made a few changes since. probably 180-185whp now. [/B][/QUOTE]

To brake into the 13's you are going to need about 180-185 whp & a gutted vehicle (rear seats & passenger front, spare tire etc) Maybe take a shit before running the car too lol.

My recommendations for you:

a. practice makes perfect at the track, so make sure you go on a day were you can get a good amount of runs in (thursday nights are decent at BMP)

b. Launching a bseries vtec motor is tricky, why ? Because you want to launch & leave the line in your powerband so you do not fall on your face.

c. Tires/Axles Try running 18 psi of pressure on street tires. Inspect your axles before going to the track & make sure you have tripple A plus for towing :-/

d. Launch as high as you possibly can without loosing too much traction. Start out at a number & keep going up & up run by run. Look at how it influences your ets.

e. Shifting gears as quickly as possible eliminating gear to gear lag will make your ets better.

Speed shifting.... This is a technique that takes getting used to.
Some people do not like it some love it.
When shifting from gear to gear, do NOT let off Wide Open Throttle, shift while you are accelerating. Hence you are at 8200 rpms or so, keep the accleration pedal down & drop the clutch into the next gear & release the clutch pedal.
Practice this skill on the street. When you are practicing stay away from your revlimitter until you master the skill.
Like I said, some people do not agree on this technique because they drive like grannys or are afraid of breaking something

f. rotaing weight is the biggest mass on your car, luckely it looks like you have lightweight wheels.


Good Luck,
John

 

It's basically the same shit and it isn't going to give you 5-8whp over the itr.

 

I've had the dc 4-2-1 and the dc jdm 4-1. Didn't really notice much of a low end loss.

Skip 13s and go 12s with Nitrous Assisted...

 

An aebs intake manifold matched to his 65mm tb will give him a few hp.

IMO since he has a ITR I/M he should be ok without it as long as his 65mm TB is port mached his ITR IM.

 

Green -B18C + Skunk2 Racing Stage I VTEC Cams + Skunk2 IM
Red - B18C + Skunk2 Racing Stage I VTEC Cams
Blue - B18C Stock

 

Not worth buying a skunk2 intake manifold, if he already has a type R. That would prove to be a waste of money, that could be more beneficial if that money were spent elsewhere. 5-8whp is absurd, there is no way. I have not seen any specific results first hand with the AEBS, so I am not personally sure about that manifold. The fact of the matter is, the intake manifold is not the limiting factor here, let's all move on. If you are looking for further gains, a different header or even different cams, would be the next logical step. Otherwise you are good for 13's as it sits, tuned properly.

 

Edit: Read it wrong.