people have already put dsm motors into the EG chassis. its just not worth it if youre trying to go fast. If you want to do something with a SR motor, throw it in a datsun 510. Thats pimp shit.

 

Well what about a turbo Hatch? Keep it simple...FMU, AFC, and 550cc Injectors...Missing Link...Cold Plugs with stock everything else...

Turbo built b16 block...Sleeved with internals...Stock head...

b16tranny with Phantom Grip LSD...

T3/T04S Stage 5 turbine in a big Turbine Housing
Log Manifold
38mm Tial Gate
Open Downpipe/dumppipe
Large Diesel Cooler

Use Solid Motor Mounts

Keep everything else stock...Cooling system, Lubrication System, Axles, Intake Manifold unless you can pick up a JG Edelbrock for cheap...Stick some hard rubber stoppers in between the rear spring coils for a high spring rate...

Reinforce the front end for minimum chassis twist and run it as it is...

Tune for A/F ratio on the dyno and keep the car straight on the track...

My friend Jose took his 96 EK to a 10.2 with a very similar setup...He used a P28 I believe...

 

The goal is not really to build a car that runs xx.xx in the quater. My goal is more towards building something as a challenge. I enjoy the challenge of building more than driving so that is why I'm leaning towards doing something a little different. If it ends up ruinning 10's or whatever then cool but that is not the main objective.

 

Throw a Caddy Northstar engine in thurr.

 

SR20DET......That would be some sick shit!

 

Running that fast on stock axles is a disaster waiting to happen. I have sheared so many stock axles napa, autozone, ect wont even accept my exchanges anymore. These axles broke on street tires not slicks. You should definitely plan on upgrading axles. Gator Axles are really good, DSS, ect...

 

Yeah but..

Think of those Nissan groupies saying a Honda needs a Nissan motor to go fast. Kinda like in the old days stuffing a small block V8 in a Sunbeam Alpine, it just wasn't a Sunbeam anymore, BUT it was fast as crap.

 

Well stick to an SR20de and use the inner CV joints from that tranny and the outer joints from the 92civic and have the shafts to the correct length...

The best way to wire that up will be with a standalone...It may be cheaper too...SDS makes affordable standalones for this project...Stick with the SR20de as they are much more readily available and run at an average of $300 for the drivetrain...

I believe the clutch uses a cable system...The engine uses a Fuel Injection uses an MAF sensor...

I've recently seen a b18c1 being transplanted into a classic Austin Mini so anything is possible...

www.sdsefi.com
www.freshalloy.com
www.se-r.net

 

Its not a disaster, they just break and you have to replace them with another one...

If you drive the car on the street like it was intended to be driven, even if its making 500whp, you can use stock axles...

If you launch the car as you will in a drag race then you will break the shafts...Keep your clutch to a minimum, use good control of how you initially move the car and double clutch without slamming the X and you stock axles will not break...

The power doesn't break the axles, the way you transfer the power to the ground does...