Tech: D series Rebuild...
ahh...screw contaminants I built the last engine in my moms driveway LOL I havnt the flow for shop space LOL it sucks being a broke ricer LOL...but if you do need a hand let me know
art
art
__________________
IM IN VA BITCH!!!!!!

www.rccustomz.com
IM IN VA BITCH!!!!!!

www.rccustomz.com
If a bearing was spun, have the crank checked / polished and have the rod where the bearing spun checked out at least.
I've rebuilt a 5.0 before, but I have no experience working on one of them 1/2 sized motors
I've rebuilt a 5.0 before, but I have no experience working on one of them 1/2 sized motors
__________________
Humanitarian, Philanthropist, Champion of the arts, supporter of single moms, and role model for misguided youths
Humanitarian, Philanthropist, Champion of the arts, supporter of single moms, and role model for misguided youths
Guest
Posts: n/a
Since the rods and pistons apear fine. Im only going to put new bearings in the motor, and re-ring it if I have to, or should. Im not sure.
I'll be on the lookout for another Y8 block to build up fully. This one is basicly a practice round. The built one, shall contail all the tricks that Endyn uses on their D series blocks, bigger oil holes in the bearings, reliefs for the pistons, etc.
I'll be on the lookout for another Y8 block to build up fully. This one is basicly a practice round. The built one, shall contail all the tricks that Endyn uses on their D series blocks, bigger oil holes in the bearings, reliefs for the pistons, etc.
Originally posted by Cronic
The built one, shall contail all the tricks that Endyn uses on their D series blocks, bigger oil holes in the bearings, reliefs for the pistons, etc.
The built one, shall contail all the tricks that Endyn uses on their D series blocks, bigger oil holes in the bearings, reliefs for the pistons, etc.
__________________
-00 Civic EX Coupe BUILT D16Y8, Precision SC50, 12.80@105.8 14psi
-00 Chevrolet S10 LS 4.3L V6 Gas Guzzler
http://www.Sohchonda.com
Honda SOHC & D Series Resource
-00 Civic EX Coupe BUILT D16Y8, Precision SC50, 12.80@105.8 14psi
-00 Chevrolet S10 LS 4.3L V6 Gas Guzzler
http://www.Sohchonda.com
Honda SOHC & D Series Resource
Guest
Posts: n/a
Day 2:
Had a little caffeine left in me after I got home from work today. So I decided to be froggy and hop to the rod removal and attempt to take out the crank.
Had a good amount of trouble removing the first rod end cap, I got the bolts off fine, but it seems they're wedged in there pretty good. Spent about 30 mins trying to think of a way to do this, I noticed someone else had the same trouble, as there are what apears to be screw driver marks on the end cap of #2 rod.
Finally I get an idea, tap the piston out!!
Dumbass. This worked wonderfuly. I decided to name the pistons from top to bottom, which in this case is Crank pulley to flywheel. 1-4.
Piston #3 removed. Bearings in both #2 and #3 are SHOT, both looked starved of oil... luckily no damage to the crank, smooth to the fingernail test... still gonna get a micropollish tho.
#2 oddly, had a small scratch on the endcap. So I may need a new rod if this can't be pollished out by the machine shop.
I have cleaned the pistons and marked them accordingly, and made sure to keep the endcaps together, as I made the mistake of mixing these up when I tore apart a previous motor.
#4 piston now removed... Dear GOD the bearing is horrible... it looks as it it's melted and formed to the rod/crank spacing...
#4 crank journal is fucked.... scored pretty good. I don't think this can be polllished out, but tomorrow when I drop the crank off, I'll see what they can do, I really don't want them to cut the crank, so I'll have to wait if they say this. The oil passage on the bearings were almost completly closed up. Wild. This is telling me a lot about this motor... probably, the previous owner just ran it so low on oil for such a long time. Pistons look a little beaten on. End cap on #4 also scored pretty well... Sigh. May need a new rod too. Great...
I assumed things would not get much worse, and still I hadn't found the bearing that was knocking!!
As I removed piston #1, the bearings fall out in 4 pieces!! Aha! Alas, crank is scored again, rod seems ok though, so that's a partial relief. I took out the rear main seal thinggy, oil pissed out a bit, looks like some kind of liquid gasket was used here. Weird.
I still couldn't get the crank gear thinggy out!!! Damn this pisses me off, Im agervated and tired... if anyone has an idea on how to remove this gear let me know.
Thanks all, pics will follow tomorrow, or the day after.
- Cronic
Had a little caffeine left in me after I got home from work today. So I decided to be froggy and hop to the rod removal and attempt to take out the crank.
Had a good amount of trouble removing the first rod end cap, I got the bolts off fine, but it seems they're wedged in there pretty good. Spent about 30 mins trying to think of a way to do this, I noticed someone else had the same trouble, as there are what apears to be screw driver marks on the end cap of #2 rod.
Finally I get an idea, tap the piston out!!
Dumbass. This worked wonderfuly. I decided to name the pistons from top to bottom, which in this case is Crank pulley to flywheel. 1-4.Piston #3 removed. Bearings in both #2 and #3 are SHOT, both looked starved of oil... luckily no damage to the crank, smooth to the fingernail test... still gonna get a micropollish tho.
#2 oddly, had a small scratch on the endcap. So I may need a new rod if this can't be pollished out by the machine shop.
I have cleaned the pistons and marked them accordingly, and made sure to keep the endcaps together, as I made the mistake of mixing these up when I tore apart a previous motor.

#4 piston now removed... Dear GOD the bearing is horrible... it looks as it it's melted and formed to the rod/crank spacing...
#4 crank journal is fucked.... scored pretty good. I don't think this can be polllished out, but tomorrow when I drop the crank off, I'll see what they can do, I really don't want them to cut the crank, so I'll have to wait if they say this. The oil passage on the bearings were almost completly closed up. Wild. This is telling me a lot about this motor... probably, the previous owner just ran it so low on oil for such a long time. Pistons look a little beaten on. End cap on #4 also scored pretty well... Sigh. May need a new rod too. Great...
I assumed things would not get much worse, and still I hadn't found the bearing that was knocking!!
As I removed piston #1, the bearings fall out in 4 pieces!! Aha! Alas, crank is scored again, rod seems ok though, so that's a partial relief. I took out the rear main seal thinggy, oil pissed out a bit, looks like some kind of liquid gasket was used here. Weird.
I still couldn't get the crank gear thinggy out!!! Damn this pisses me off, Im agervated and tired... if anyone has an idea on how to remove this gear let me know.
Thanks all, pics will follow tomorrow, or the day after.
- Cronic
__________________
Single Toyota Supra Auto, Twin Turbo C5 FRC, and Chevy Duramax!!
My email:
vince99frc@gmail.com
Single Toyota Supra Auto, Twin Turbo C5 FRC, and Chevy Duramax!!
My email:
vince99frc@gmail.com


