ok, lets talk suspension
U do realize you have a 10 bolt rear end... ??...
They are not the strongest rear ends out there... Lowering your 60 fts will put a lot of stress on them...
People have broken them on stock WS6's and SS's using slicks while some beat the living hell out of them and they last just fine... Mine has never given me issues but mine isnt set up for drag racing. Looking at Gators Trans AM... i'd say his has done him pretty well.. Just be prepared to have about an extra 700 dollars in your pocket set aside for fixing stuff , in general, once you start modding. The more u mod the more money you'll use is maintaining and tweaking the mods.
They are not the strongest rear ends out there... Lowering your 60 fts will put a lot of stress on them...
People have broken them on stock WS6's and SS's using slicks while some beat the living hell out of them and they last just fine... Mine has never given me issues but mine isnt set up for drag racing. Looking at Gators Trans AM... i'd say his has done him pretty well.. Just be prepared to have about an extra 700 dollars in your pocket set aside for fixing stuff , in general, once you start modding. The more u mod the more money you'll use is maintaining and tweaking the mods.
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96 M6 Arctic White Z28
"SLOW LT1"
Blue 2005 Acura TSX

96 M6 Arctic White Z28
"SLOW LT1"
Blue 2005 Acura TSX
Originally Posted by BLUE2KSS
if you dont mind me asking, what kind of set up do you have?
i know you must have extensive motor work to run that low of an et NA, but im curious
i know you must have extensive motor work to run that low of an et NA, but im curious
Ask away, I'm an open book about what I have or have tried. Just remember, it isn't about how many parts you can bolt/weld whatever on the car, it is all about the entire package. The motor is a ~347ci with forged internals and stage 2 heads with a (by todays standards) medium cam 228/228 .581 lift on a 112lsa. Most of my money went into the rest of the car - suspension and drivetrain wise and I think my numbers reflect that. While I won't win any dyno races I sure don't have a problem holding my own at the track against the higher HP cars.
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Joey
Joey
Zdriver96 - i do actually have a Moser 12 bolt rearend. auto cars dont need them and can easily run 11s with a stock rear. the 6 speed guys - lol, totally different story. mine happen to break because i drag race a LOT.
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1999 Pontiac Trans Am
1999 Pontiac Trans Am
Originally Posted by 1Bad00SS
What makes you think you could of keep up with me. Have you ever had that car on a dyno?
Originally Posted by ZDriver96
U do realize you have a 10 bolt rear end... ??...
They are not the strongest rear ends out there... Lowering your 60 fts will put a lot of stress on them...
People have broken them on stock WS6's and SS's using slicks while some beat the living hell out of them and they last just fine... Mine has never given me issues but mine isnt set up for drag racing. Looking at Gators Trans AM... i'd say his has done him pretty well.. Just be prepared to have about an extra 700 dollars in your pocket set aside for fixing stuff , in general, once you start modding. The more u mod the more money you'll use is maintaining and tweaking the mods.
They are not the strongest rear ends out there... Lowering your 60 fts will put a lot of stress on them...
People have broken them on stock WS6's and SS's using slicks while some beat the living hell out of them and they last just fine... Mine has never given me issues but mine isnt set up for drag racing. Looking at Gators Trans AM... i'd say his has done him pretty well.. Just be prepared to have about an extra 700 dollars in your pocket set aside for fixing stuff , in general, once you start modding. The more u mod the more money you'll use is maintaining and tweaking the mods.
yes, i know. i mentioned earlier that ill be switching that out before i go super crazy with it.
for now i just want a better hook on the street, no slicks for this car yet. and even when i do it, ill be doing BFG or micky DR's because its a weekend toy when i go all out
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Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
Originally Posted by Joe99SS
Ask away, I'm an open book about what I have or have tried. Just remember, it isn't about how many parts you can bolt/weld whatever on the car, it is all about the entire package. The motor is a ~347ci with forged internals and stage 2 heads with a (by todays standards) medium cam 228/228 .581 lift on a 112lsa. Most of my money went into the rest of the car - suspension and drivetrain wise and I think my numbers reflect that. While I won't win any dyno races I sure don't have a problem holding my own at the track against the higher HP cars.
exactly what i want to do. HP is nice, but if you cant put it down, you are going nowhere fast
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Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant

Mechanical Engineer - Naval Surface Warfare Center PCD, Marine Corps. Counter IED Development
USF Formula and Baja racing Alumni/Consultant
Originally Posted by gator
explain because i have never seen this. why would a sub 1.7 matter as opposed to a 2.0 and below times? have you gone sub 1.7s and noticed this on your personal car?
His Power/Weight Ratio is alot better than mine though. And his race car has a racing suspension, where mine / a 13 second 1/8th wouldnt have. My only point was the faster the 60' the more margin of error .01 on the 60' is in the long run.
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448WHP/420WTQ
Full bolt-ons+H/C
Car Sound Clip & More(W/ Mekanic)
Tuned by Precision Motorsports
448WHP/420WTQ
Full bolt-ons+H/C
Car Sound Clip & More(W/ Mekanic)
Tuned by Precision Motorsports
Last edited by Quickdomesticracer; May 18, 2005 at 01:26 PM.


