plugs of choice
I don't think you're supposed to gap iridiums.......you can, I think it's more for snapping the electrode in the middle. That thing is small and frail.
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Drunmann Tuning's Scoob: 2.55 liter-6spd swapped Bugeye, fully built w/280 cams and a rotated Precision-6266
DD: 2010 MazdaSpeed3: Fully bolted and tuned
Drift Missile: S13 DOHC swap, welded diff = slidetastic
Bicycle: Kawi 636R.
Drunmann Tuning's Scoob: 2.55 liter-6spd swapped Bugeye, fully built w/280 cams and a rotated Precision-6266
DD: 2010 MazdaSpeed3: Fully bolted and tuned
Drift Missile: S13 DOHC swap, welded diff = slidetastic
Bicycle: Kawi 636R.
if you're not a ham-fisted Neanderthal then you can gap them, but they are a bit more prone to breaking than copper, which is very soft
Well in that case, i'd probably break them. lol
Most FI cars need a .030 gap anyways.
Most FI cars need a .030 gap anyways.
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Drunmann Tuning's Scoob: 2.55 liter-6spd swapped Bugeye, fully built w/280 cams and a rotated Precision-6266
DD: 2010 MazdaSpeed3: Fully bolted and tuned
Drift Missile: S13 DOHC swap, welded diff = slidetastic
Bicycle: Kawi 636R.
Drunmann Tuning's Scoob: 2.55 liter-6spd swapped Bugeye, fully built w/280 cams and a rotated Precision-6266
DD: 2010 MazdaSpeed3: Fully bolted and tuned
Drift Missile: S13 DOHC swap, welded diff = slidetastic
Bicycle: Kawi 636R.
you can gap an iridium plug just fine...don't touch the fine elctrode, just stick a small screwdriver in the ground strap bend and open it up a little, or give it a tap on a counter top to close it up a little. Be careful, they are fragile.
I use the NGK iridiums, heat range 8 for higher boost (NGK has a backwards heat range) or NGK V-power 7's for daily driving.
I use the NGK iridiums, heat range 8 for higher boost (NGK has a backwards heat range) or NGK V-power 7's for daily driving.
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