Drilled and Slotted Rotors
July - Ride of the Month
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Your right, I didnt say that they were more effective, just why and how porsche gets away with cross drilled rotors and have them last.
7M 2JZ bird in pear tree
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Understatement of the year. Bars of soap hold up better than EBC pads. A fresh set of EBCs (any color) won't last me a single day on the track.
That said, I do run them on my street Viper because I can get a gazillion miles out of the rotors. But the lack of stopping power is noticable on a heavy car like the Viper. Losing a couple hundred pounds would definitely help.
That said, I do run them on my street Viper because I can get a gazillion miles out of the rotors. But the lack of stopping power is noticable on a heavy car like the Viper. Losing a couple hundred pounds would definitely help.
Porsche doesnt get excessive either. Their brakes are from Brembo, but didnt go crazy like my Brembo replacements
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Yea..that very well could have been the most retarded idea I've ever heard, but .. do it anyway. -TheShow50h
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Yea..that very well could have been the most retarded idea I've ever heard, but .. do it anyway. -TheShow50h
Last edited by Orion ZyGarian; Jun 3, 2009 at 01:26 PM.
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Your argument is a little flawed. You upgraded pads and rotors at the same time, so you can't really say the rotors helped at all. I'm willing to bet that if you have upgraded to the HPS pads and left OE rotors you would have seen a similar improvement in braking performance, if not the same increase altogether.
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TR Balla Donor Supreme
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There is still a problem with the rotors cracking at the drill points - all the turbos, most of the 993's that have drilled rotors have an issue with stress cracks - especially the fronts - especially those that don't have some sort of forced cooling -
EBC? Rotor friendly - but that's about it - chuck have you tried the PFC97's? I'm running porterfield RS now - switched over to pagid's this past weekend (but liked the torque of the porterfield's better) I get a little more glazing on the flat rotors - but like the bite on the slotted better. The slotted do make the pads wear a little bit faster.
yep, got a little bit of lean going here too - suspension next
EBC? Rotor friendly - but that's about it - chuck have you tried the PFC97's? I'm running porterfield RS now - switched over to pagid's this past weekend (but liked the torque of the porterfield's better) I get a little more glazing on the flat rotors - but like the bite on the slotted better. The slotted do make the pads wear a little bit faster.
yep, got a little bit of lean going here too - suspension next
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"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower"
-Mark Donohue
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower"
-Mark Donohue
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Sexist
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PFC01 on the front for me and they'll put you through the windshield if you're not strapped in. I love 'em. I've heard they have a new and improved pad but I'm so attached to my current setup it would be difficult to move me off it.
I wasted too much money on Pagids R14. Mediocre at best for my application.
I wasted too much money on Pagids R14. Mediocre at best for my application.
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Chuck
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If you had a light, nimble Honda instead of that redneck mobile dodge "sports car" it wouldn't be a problem chuck 
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Totally man, it would increase your fuel mileage as well, giving you an edge in endurance events. See all these good ideas I have? You should hire me as your race engineer 
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I with Chuck on this and he did drive a light nimble Honda around the track. Also, with crossdrilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. They are still on the car no cracks after two years.
Try cryogenic processing to decrease potential cracking. For track purposes I would go slotted only because eventually even cryoed rotors will crack it will just take 2-3 times longer. Slotted don't have that problem except powerslots with are a poor design.
For street use I would get OEM rotors some good pads and cryo them. Proven to last 200-300% longer. The Tampa fleet department is testing some SUB ZERO cryo-processed rotors now with great results. They are lasting longer and not near as much brake fade.
Try cryogenic processing to decrease potential cracking. For track purposes I would go slotted only because eventually even cryoed rotors will crack it will just take 2-3 times longer. Slotted don't have that problem except powerslots with are a poor design.
For street use I would get OEM rotors some good pads and cryo them. Proven to last 200-300% longer. The Tampa fleet department is testing some SUB ZERO cryo-processed rotors now with great results. They are lasting longer and not near as much brake fade.
