Originally Posted by EsCoRtLvR

I hope you guys have figured it out by now and if you have any questions let me know, I'm more than willing to lend my knowledge. I can't say I know everything (if any douche mechanic or "technician" says they do..RUN), but I do have some pretty extensive training and experience on the subject.

The most common drain I've seen on Fords is from the ignition switch, aftermarket stereo/alarm, and GEM modules.





Fuelie327- Yep hysterical. So since we're going technical lets play

I guess the 400mA it takes to light a test light is really close to the 60mA it takes to technically be out of spec and be an abnormal draw...

You could also say that 1.5 volts=.4 amps * 3.75 ohms of resistance based on the statement given above and ohm's law . Therefore the volt draw when the caps are empty should be right around .21V to get a 56mA draw .

The amp draw will step from 400mA to 180mA to the spec around 56mA if you wait over time instead of touching the cables and draining it down, the caps in the RAP last 20 min or so like previously stated.

I can't count how many battery drains I've fixed and how many old school mechanics I have taught this method of using volts instead of amps. I wasn't a lead tech for no reason and I'm not certified for no reason either. I could be wrong though

V=R*I
I=V/R

last I knew. If you know the resistance of the line and the volts of the line the amps are right there. There's no mysterious appearance of more amps than ohm's law.

That priority start thing really works too though!

I love how everyone is always like "the dealership couldn't figure it out" . Based on my experience I would say that about 75% of those people didn't want to pay to diagnose the car, just wanted to pay to fix it. I don't know about all of you but I don't clock into work to do free stuff for my boss, nor do I walk up to a retail salesperson and tell them they need to help me without pay...

Just a little rant before bed