Help with wheel backspace
I'm not positive on the weights from your body to a Fox, but once I hang the turbo stuff of the nose I''ll need some 14-175's. If your has them 250's in there, I bet there isnt any tranfer.
My opinion on the changing the uppers, would be to keep what you have with the lowers, being you can adjust pinion angle there or sell your set-up, uppers and lowers and go to a solid lower with an adlustable uppers with sloid bushings
My opinion on the changing the uppers, would be to keep what you have with the lowers, being you can adjust pinion angle there or sell your set-up, uppers and lowers and go to a solid lower with an adlustable uppers with sloid bushings
I'm going to look for some 14-175's and try those out and see what happens. I want to see how Mark does with his UCA's and if they work well, I'm going to get those. If not, then its save a little more and get a good set then.
Tommy, when you say solid lowers, you mean LCA's that don't use the bracket?
Tommy, when you say solid lowers, you mean LCA's that don't use the bracket?
__________________
-Darren
03 Cobra Vert: Whipple, Lt's, H-pipe, SRA, 325 MT Dr's, more bolt-on's - Weekend Beater
88 Mustang Coupe: Gutted - Project
-Darren 03 Cobra Vert: Whipple, Lt's, H-pipe, SRA, 325 MT Dr's, more bolt-on's - Weekend Beater

88 Mustang Coupe: Gutted - Project
I'm going to look for some 14-175's and try those out and see what happens. I want to see how Mark does with his UCA's and if they work well, I'm going to get those. If not, then its save a little more and get a good set then.
Tommy, when you say solid lowers, you mean LCA's that don't use the bracket?
Tommy, when you say solid lowers, you mean LCA's that don't use the bracket?
Solid lowers..I meant solid arms with no bushings that use rod ends. Lakewoods have a pre-determined pinion angle built in them. No need to run adjustable uppers with those lowers IMO. I you change the lowers to "stadard type" (no pinion angle built into them) then go to adjustable uppers
Check these out...all solid, no rubber bushings
http://www.trzmotorsports.com/fox.html#rear
Last edited by GNs-r-slow; Feb 10, 2010 at 01:51 PM.
-tye
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After watching the video i can say two things. You need to practice launching much more and you need to get rid of the bilstein front shocks, they are far from optimal for a drag set up. Also your car is very noise heavy with an iron block and blower, 175 pound springs would be a little light for your nose weight id put a 200 14" if it was my car and i drove it on the street as well . I think the 250s your running now could get by with a proper strut but would not be optimal for drag racing, i know this from experience. That car just needs a few tweaks and a good launch and youll be cutting good 60 fts. My stick car was lowered 2 inches and still cut low 1.5s on nittos and it was all from sorting out my front end. I would keep practicing as well, that will help you learn your car. Lots of good information in this thread im just not sure if much of it would apply to your car, but that is just my opinion.
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in memory of Kevin Gonzalez 6/21/86 - 9/13/06
in memory of Kevin Gonzalez 6/21/86 - 9/13/06
Last edited by CBRTRX; Feb 13, 2010 at 05:41 AM.
Thanks Chris. I know that I need to practice more and get it down. Its a lot of seat time, and as for the springs up front, I found a new set that will be here Weds or so.
__________________
-Darren
03 Cobra Vert: Whipple, Lt's, H-pipe, SRA, 325 MT Dr's, more bolt-on's - Weekend Beater
88 Mustang Coupe: Gutted - Project
-Darren 03 Cobra Vert: Whipple, Lt's, H-pipe, SRA, 325 MT Dr's, more bolt-on's - Weekend Beater

88 Mustang Coupe: Gutted - Project


