Its fairly simple, just time consuming.

It also depends on what year car you are starting with. If you are starting with a 96-98 car, there is not much more then a couple sensor wires/connectors that have to be extended (IAC, voltage regulator, possibly the tps, a 4-5 wire plug going to the passenger side frame rail from the front of the passenger valve cover. Get 4v spark plug wires.

If you have a 99-04, there is a little more to it:
The most work is extending the coil harness on each bank. Instead of the coils being in between the intake and the valve cover, they are in the middle of the valve cover. But the wires enter the rear of the valve cover, under the coil covers. So you have to extend them long enough to enter at the rear, then to each coil.

Its easiest if you start out with a 99/01 Cobra, 03/04 mach1 motors. Fuel rails, sensors, most everything is compatible and will just drop in. Those can be pretty expensive, so the 98-99 mark motor that already has COP's the COP valve covers, (and better heads/valvesprings then the earlier 93-97 marks) is the most cost effective engine option. With a 96-98 Cobra intake, and a set of 96-98 Cobra intake cams, you pretty much have a 96-98 cobra motor for MUCH less then it would cost to buy one. The major difference between that and the cobra motor is the cobra has an 8 bolt forged crank, and the mark has a 6 bolt cast crank(which has proven to hold over 600rwhp)

If you decide to use a 96-98 Cobra motor, or 93-97 mark motor, you will need to pick up a set of 4v COP's and a set of valvecovers off of a 4v with COPs


The mark8 motor that I swapped in was a 98 which already has COP's, and it was complete with wiring harness, so I just cut out the coil harness from each bank and soldered and shrink wrapped it into the GT harness (after matching the wires up and figuring out exactly where to splice them in.)

The other issue that I ran into putting an older motor with B heads was intake choice. (96-98 Cobras and all mark 8s had B heads, although the 93-97 mark had B heads with weaker valvesprings, and were not machined to accept the newer style beehive valvesprings). The 96-98 Cobra intake was pretty much the only real performance option. The stock 96-98 Cobra intake rails would not work dur to the lack of a boss for a FRPS that the 99-04 returnless fuel system cars have. I used a set of aeromotive rails for a 96-98 Cobra with an adapter to run an FRPS from sullivan.

here are some other things:
*Your trans will bolt right up
*need to get a set of headers for a 4v, dont waste your time with manifolds (the mark manifolds will not work).
*Due to the shallow oil pan on the marks, the oil pickup is not as long. 98-99s have the larger diameter tube and a 96-04 4v pickup can be swapped over. 93-97's will have to be lengthened using part of your 2v pickup. (many have swapped without changing the pickup, but it lifts it a couple inches higher then it should be.....dont run it low on oil)
*Need to swap over to mustang pan on mark motor (2v and 4v pans are the same)
*MOST 2v's up to mid 01 had a 6 bolt flywheel, mid 01 and newer should have an 8 bolt flywheel. you will have to take into account what 4v you have and what bolt crank it has.
*Heater Hoses........That was a cluster fuck!..... I did not realize that the mark 8 heater pipe under the intake and the back of the head were different then the mustang pieces. Make sure to get the pipe that goes from the nipple under the intake to the heater core and the one that bolts/presses into the rear of the passenger side head for a 4V mustang.

* Coolant hoses.... You should get an actual Cobra thermostat, it has a slightly different angle then the mark8 one. But if you unbolt the mark8 housing and rotate the two halves 180*, it is close enough to work. Look up the proper hoses for the year of your motor set up (IE 96-98 Cobra, 99-01 Cobra/mach1) There are 4 major hoses, the coolant bypass is the largest one that goes from the coolant crossover to the thermostat. Then there is a smaller one from the thermostat to the rad, and from the thermostat to the block (or the engine oil cooler). You will also need the hose from the coolant reservoir to the thermostat (I cut off the one from the 2v and lengthened it with some heater hose and a nipple)

Wow, I didn't intend on the big write up....I need to copy and paste all of that and save it, lol.... I'll add more to it if I can think of anything else.

Any more questions, fell free to ask.

 

I went years ago when I first swapped the motor in. I ran a 13.9 @ 104 with a 3.08 gear Put the blower on in May and never went to the track.

 

if your looking to stay 6cyl you can run the 4.2 out of the f150 my buddy did it in his 00 sixer... its a pretty descent and quick swap...

 

unless im missing something that sounds REALLY stupid

why swap out a 190hp sixxer for a 202hp sixxer?

so much time/money for 7hp dont you think? again, unless im missing something (And itd have to be something pretty danm signifigant)

their is absoulty no point in swapping a weak v6 for another weak v6

 

massive gains!

 

MPE....Thanks for the write up...it is a 96 2v, my dad got on a crack head deal for $300. It had been run hot so we just put a 2v in it to get it going

 

oh yea

LOL

 

yes may sound stupid but if your wanting to stay 6cyl... might as well get that extra 7hp plus if im not mistaken the 4.2's are alot more torque then the 3.8s and they cost right around the same price... i was just stating the swap because i thought it would be just for a qucik dd swap... but if your really wanting to actually do something and you have the time and the money 5.4 swaps the way to go...

 

The 4.2 makes quite a bit more torque, and with the mustang intake, there will be a bigger gain then 7 peak HP.

Kind of like swapping out a P.I 2v that's rated at 260 for a 4v that's rated at 280

seems like a lot of work for a little gain in ADVERTISED RATINGS. But 9 times out of ten, the swapped motor will have some changes done to push its peak power well over what the original rating was.



The gains will actually be more then what ford rated the truck 4.2. Using the mustang intake on it will net a bit more peak HP.

Some have been pretty successful with the 4.2 swap. With a set of ported heads, ported intake (mustang), and a custom cam, it can make close to 300rwhp. But doing those things are not too cost effective, and only someone that is dead set on keeping the sixxer would do that.

 

i dont know what your talking about

who swapped a 2v for a 4v?????

i wish i could do that swap!!!!!