The horror stories that you heard probably were about the regular Auburns not the Auburn Pros. A lot of the breakage comes from improper installation and people not using the proper fluids and friction modifiers. Also I have noticed the people that break a lot of rear ends are the same ones doing 30 second burnouts every run at the track. So no matter what brand you run they will only last if you do not beat the sh** out of them all the time.

Believe it or not I have been running my stock unit and axles since new (1990)and it has never been rebuilt and I have never broken anyting in the rear ! That is with nearly 100 runs at the track on the bottle and slicks dropping the hammer around 4000 rpms! I am the only person I know that has got this much useage out of the original unit. I am gearing up to go much faster soon so I am going the smart route and beefing up the rear suspension first instead of breaking it first.

The Torsen diffs. are getting a lot of press right now because they are the new kid on the block so everyone wants to try them. Do as you please just make sure it is installed properly and you use the correct fluids and modifiers.

 

Fordman

Those were Aunburn Pro Units. Did a descent burnout maybe 5/10 sec at the most.

Chris

 

Well thats odd. I know quite a few people with them and none of them had problems. What kind of fluid did you run ? And did you use the presribed friction modifier ?

 

My sediments exactly. Never get Toms Kick Ass Axles either. Junk junk junk. On my way to a 1.7 60 launch in my moms Cobra I twisted these shitty axles and fragged the stock diff. So I had to buy her an Auburn Pro and some Superior Axles. The Superiors are just that but I am terrified of doing any hardcore drag launches with the car for fear of the Auburn breaking. One 500 dollar diff is enough for me thanks. BTW the Bullit still rides out with its fresh factory Trac-Loc and 3.55 gears with stock axles. Then again that car will never see slicks. Anyone wanna run from 100mph when she is done and broken in?

 

:[/b][/quote]
My sediments exactly. Never get Toms Kick Ass Axles either. Junk junk junk. On my way to a 1.7 60 launch in my moms Cobra I twisted these shitty axles and fragged the stock diff. So I had to buy her an Auburn Pro and some Superior Axles. The Superiors are just that but I am terrified of doing any hardcore drag launches with the car for fear of the Auburn breaking. One 500 dollar diff is enough for me thanks. BTW the Bullit still rides out with its fresh factory Trac-Loc and 3.55 gears with stock axles. Then again that car will never see slicks. Anyone wanna run from 100mph when she is done and broken in? [/b][/quote]

$500 for a Auburn ? I paid $345 for mine and $250 for my Mosier axles. If any rear end is not set with the proper backlash it will break. A
friend of mine that races in the Fun Ford Weekend series has used his for many years on his low 10 second car that launches at 6000 rpms with no problems. And the guy that installed his is going to do mine so we will see if it holds up.

 

Now the guy that drops at 6000 rpms is not running stock rear end pieces. And get this his heads are milled so close to the piston his compression ratio is almost 16 to 1 ! No B.S..

I have been dropping my stock setup around 4000 rpms on slicks for years now (probably around 100 runs at track) and have never broken a thing. My car 60fts in the mid 1.6s all day long too. So I dont know what to say. I have seen people break there rear within the first year and then you have my car that is 11 years old. I am leary of changing out my stock stuff for all the new stuff I just purchased because it has been working so well for so long. But I had better do it before I blow something apart.

 

16:1? He run diesel in that thing? I refuse to believe it since some of the nastiest local race cars I know run no more than 14:1 on race gas. I really dont see how milling your heads down alone could ever produce this kind of compression ratio. He would have to have flycut domed pistons as well...and even then. Lemme guess he runs it on pump gas too. Is this the Mustang with 2 reverse gears? If all he is running is 10s with that wonder setup he has issues. There are 10.5 tire class cars running faster with less compression and as anyone will tell you compression alone does not make your car fast.

Anyway I lumped the Auburn bearings and ring and pinion together since the metal shavings from the old spider gears funked up the whole shooting match.

As for your 1.6 60 foot times with slicks...this is no big feat. I am merely .1 second off of your time with drag radials mounted on 17 wheels. Did I mention that the car I did this with is a 99 Cobra convertable with road race suspension and a solid rear axle conversion? Imagine that car with slicks. All you are doing with slicks on your stock suspension is hurting your car if you havent already. At my last place of employment (Race Related) I have seen many people who have done what you did. Common issues were:
dents in roof and 1/4 panel caused by body flex
torn lower torque boxes
demolished upper control arm mounting points
tears in floorboard
body so warped and twisted subframes couldnt be installed properly

Every Mustang I have ever built personally (wether it be mine or family) had fully built and properly built suspension and reinforcements before it was beat on. If you actually took the time to reinforce and build your suspension then disregard this.