Got into a debate with a Ford guy today about high compression and boost..
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Originally Posted by SpyVO
OK, so he said you could run LOW boost when the timing was retarded and the tank is full of race gas. I don't think that's actually TOO out of line. Now if he was suggesting that you do this everyday, well yeah he's smoking something. That recipe sounds like a track/dyno tune.
I'll agree with whoever said that making a turbo setup to work on that combo is a waste of time.
I'll agree with whoever said that making a turbo setup to work on that combo is a waste of time.
If you back enough timing out of anything you can run the boost and compression up. But then you are becoming very boost dependant and not maximizing your motor to the fullest when it is off boost. More timing = more power with less boost dependancy but there is a very fine line with that.
Personally I would rather have 20-24 degrees of timing and have the car be more responsive off boost or going into boost vs. having 15-20 degrees and being very laggy.
you only pull enough to avoid detonation...which isnt all that much really, but this is really beside the point, it can be done and I will be doing it soon myself(as soon as those pistons get here) the engine should hit around 500hp fully tuned and done with, I could get more out of it if I wanted to lower the compression, but seriously...why would I need more than 500? 500 is pretty good for a v6, this is mainly going to be a quick street car(not a daily driver though, the SHO motor is just too high maitenence for that, my neon will still do that duty) heh, I'll just agree to disagree with the majority of people for now
Wow this got good fast.. I posted the same thing on ls1tech.com and check out there comments..
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=301843
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=301843
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Single Toyota Supra Auto, Twin Turbo C5 FRC, and Chevy Duramax!!
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Single Toyota Supra Auto, Twin Turbo C5 FRC, and Chevy Duramax!!
My email:
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yep, he should lower the compression, but he could do it with high compression and lots of headaches, and like I said earlier...11:1 is too much for even me to mess with, get some slightly thinker headgaskets to lower the compression to about 10:1 then go for it
I have to look at my build sheet, but I doubt I could run enough gasket to get me down to 10:1.1. My heads are currently 64cc. Most of my compression comes from thinner gaskets and flat top pistons with 2cc valve reliefs. From what I was told it is best to swap out pistons instead of going with a thicker gasket on boost.
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Single Toyota Supra Auto, Twin Turbo C5 FRC, and Chevy Duramax!!
My email:
vince99frc@gmail.com
Single Toyota Supra Auto, Twin Turbo C5 FRC, and Chevy Duramax!!
My email:
vince99frc@gmail.com
IMO, thicker or thinner headgaskets arent a viable way to move static compression up or down by substantial amounts, and it very likely will have unwanted effects with quench and burn characteristics in the chambers making detonation more likely. Piston to deck clearance, cylinder head chamber layout, piston crown design, etc, play a part in choosing H/G thickness but static compression shouldnt be the overriding concern... if it is someone seriously f'ed up in the planning and buildup of that motor. In any case, tuneup shouldnt be the issue here either, of course the tuneup has to be right on... any FI vehicle producing extremely high power levels has to have a near perfect tuneup or the owner will be shown how to make tens of thousands of dollars worth of quality engine parts fit in a five gallon bucket. Stand alone engine management is only as good as the understanding the person responsible for tuning has of what is required... the complete access these systems provide is often a grenade with the pin pulled in the hands of self tune owners or do it all performance shops. There are few that have the understanding, equipment and the ability to do it right. Compression seems to be the focus of this thread but I'd be equally concerned with the packaging and plumbing whenever a turbo is involved.
Whats the difference if you run 100 shot on pump gas or 8lbs of boost on pump gas???
I dont see the difference...........start with a great N/A setup like you have and you will have a great blower combo.Hell 6lbs of boost on your motor would be sweet and I dont see too much issue.1 or 2 gals of 100 per tank for safty would more then likely be needed.........As long as your under 600rwhp and have cool air temps after the blower what is the difference how it get the extra oxygen to make the power.The only diff I see is it will take 50rwhp to turn the blower so youll make 50rwhp less then what you make on the pump gas on the spray.
But knowin you youll want 800 rwhp so you mine as well get the right piston to get you at 9 to 1.................hehehehe
I dont see the difference...........start with a great N/A setup like you have and you will have a great blower combo.Hell 6lbs of boost on your motor would be sweet and I dont see too much issue.1 or 2 gals of 100 per tank for safty would more then likely be needed.........As long as your under 600rwhp and have cool air temps after the blower what is the difference how it get the extra oxygen to make the power.The only diff I see is it will take 50rwhp to turn the blower so youll make 50rwhp less then what you make on the pump gas on the spray.
But knowin you youll want 800 rwhp so you mine as well get the right piston to get you at 9 to 1.................hehehehe
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Last edited by vetkilr; Apr 11, 2005 at 08:42 AM.



