to lock or not to lock?
Originally posted by Strokd85
depends on how much racing you plan on doing, not a bad thing to have. easy to install as well.
no difference in auto vs. 5spd as it works with the brakes only, not the trans.
as far as burnouts on DRs, I've heard that you need a decent burnout to get them to to work, but not John Force like...
depends on how much racing you plan on doing, not a bad thing to have. easy to install as well.
no difference in auto vs. 5spd as it works with the brakes only, not the trans.
as far as burnouts on DRs, I've heard that you need a decent burnout to get them to to work, but not John Force like...
hahaa
well thanx for the REAL reply, as noone else here actually said anything to help me really lol.
I am probly gonna go for it,I dont race every week but I do drive it everyday, brakes are something I dont wanna kill all the time at the track.So I figure its cheap, maybe 70 bucks total for the whole kit and install shouldn't be to long.
Its an affordable way to ensure there is no killin of my rotors and my pads.
I will probly do it, and as for the burnouts on D/R's,I heard earlier u dont gotta do anything but roll thrugh some water and then just dump the clutch and spin until u roll up or aren't burnin em anymore and dont use the brake at all.
But I figure u have to heat em more than that, get a lil smoke to ensure heat.
Thanx for the reply Dereck..
Chris....
As stated by another member the line lock only deals with brakes so it does not matter what kind of trans you have. They are very simple to install and rather inexpensive. As far as burnouts goes it depends if you are running tubes or not. It you are just running tubeless tires you just need to get them hot and clean off the road debris.
If you are running regular radials, just clean them off and go, anything else will actually hurt you. As for DR's, most of the time you really need to smoke them up.
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2013 Base Mustang GT - Tampa Stock
2013 Base Mustang GT - Tampa Stock
Linelock and tranny brakes are a waste of time on a car that barely runs a 13 second slip. I'd look elsewhere for a gain.
My best times on drag radials (17 inchers at that) were achieved by a short burnout just to clean them off. Pressure was @ 17psi. This got me a 1.72 60' time. Granted, it is not cut and dry like that for everyone (there is some skill involved
), but you get the idea of what one can accomplish without a big smokey burnout.
My best times on drag radials (17 inchers at that) were achieved by a short burnout just to clean them off. Pressure was @ 17psi. This got me a 1.72 60' time. Granted, it is not cut and dry like that for everyone (there is some skill involved
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I run in the 1.5 range on slicks in the 60ft. with my little bit of power and here is what seems to work for me.
Back the car in the waterbox, spin the tires over quickly to get the tires wet, pull forward one car length. Put the car in 2nd gear, revv the gas (if you have a manual), drop the clutch around 4,000 r.p.m.'s, and hit the brakes.. Bring the revs up to a constant 4k - 5k rpm's for 5 seconds or so and then let off the brakes the car will grab like a mo'fugger as soon as the car starts to roll.
Now DO NOT DRY HOP ! The next time your tires are shocked on the track will be the best traction. A dry hop will only hurt at this point.
Drag radials need to be hot. Repeat the same steps above just remain in the water closer to 10 seconds or until you see some think white smoke.
Regular radials just need a quick spin over out of the water and then proceed up to the line.
Hope this helps someone.
Back the car in the waterbox, spin the tires over quickly to get the tires wet, pull forward one car length. Put the car in 2nd gear, revv the gas (if you have a manual), drop the clutch around 4,000 r.p.m.'s, and hit the brakes.. Bring the revs up to a constant 4k - 5k rpm's for 5 seconds or so and then let off the brakes the car will grab like a mo'fugger as soon as the car starts to roll.
Now DO NOT DRY HOP ! The next time your tires are shocked on the track will be the best traction. A dry hop will only hurt at this point.
Drag radials need to be hot. Repeat the same steps above just remain in the water closer to 10 seconds or until you see some think white smoke.
Regular radials just need a quick spin over out of the water and then proceed up to the line.
Hope this helps someone.
I usually drive around the water and skip that part all together. While I cannot speak for how the BFG Drag radials perform, I can tell you that Nitto's rendition do not like too much heat. My time was produced in a 320 rwhp Cobra Convertable with road race style suspension. The tires dead hooked using the technique discribed in my last post @ a 4000 rpm launch.
I really can't vouch for the proper techniques or reccomend any techniques for tires like ET Streets, Sportsman I's or slicks though. All I can say is that regular street tires do not appreciate a wild burnout and will get super greasy when subjected to too much heat, thus negating any positive effect a burnout might have.
Like I said before, you may want to look into some suspension if you have not done that already. The proper suspension setup goes a long way towards any launch on any tires. Just ask the guy who purchased the old Lemon Drop how well that thing jumps.
I really can't vouch for the proper techniques or reccomend any techniques for tires like ET Streets, Sportsman I's or slicks though. All I can say is that regular street tires do not appreciate a wild burnout and will get super greasy when subjected to too much heat, thus negating any positive effect a burnout might have.
Like I said before, you may want to look into some suspension if you have not done that already. The proper suspension setup goes a long way towards any launch on any tires. Just ask the guy who purchased the old Lemon Drop how well that thing jumps.
Hey thanks for the info on the burnouts guys. I was interested to reinforce what I thought the proper technique was so that I could use that technique for next track event.
Matt
Matt
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AIM- Wildcard302
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yea,I learned a good amount there from u guys.
I am gonna have Nitto's by then, 555R Extreme's to be exact.
I bought the line lock last night and that was my final decision,I have heard some good feedback on it and neg feedback.
I am doing what's gonna please me and make me feel good bout the car, so its done and should be here in under a week if they dont take their slow ass time getting it here.
I ordered from Jegs online for around 82 dollars and change.
I know this isn't gonna be a superior mod and or a hp gain at all.
I just use my car everyday on the street and dont wanna have to buy new brake rotors and new pads when I can spend 80 bucks 1 time and save the brakes as much as I used them before.
Thanx for all the help and what not, I usually have my own technique for burnouts which may or may not be pretty similar to most of the ones already described here.
I pull in the middle because I have an LSD rearend and to get it to lock and not force me sideways while burning out,I lock the clutch by backing up into the water, spin em a bit to soak the whole tire, pull forward and then I hold 2nd gear (3.73's) and I spin around 5000 rpm till I get a lil smoke off the tires and I know for sure they are hot, and then I let off the brake and let it just roll out spinning till they spin no more.
thanx again
Chris
I am gonna have Nitto's by then, 555R Extreme's to be exact.
I bought the line lock last night and that was my final decision,I have heard some good feedback on it and neg feedback.
I am doing what's gonna please me and make me feel good bout the car, so its done and should be here in under a week if they dont take their slow ass time getting it here.
I ordered from Jegs online for around 82 dollars and change.
I know this isn't gonna be a superior mod and or a hp gain at all.
I just use my car everyday on the street and dont wanna have to buy new brake rotors and new pads when I can spend 80 bucks 1 time and save the brakes as much as I used them before.
Thanx for all the help and what not, I usually have my own technique for burnouts which may or may not be pretty similar to most of the ones already described here.
I pull in the middle because I have an LSD rearend and to get it to lock and not force me sideways while burning out,I lock the clutch by backing up into the water, spin em a bit to soak the whole tire, pull forward and then I hold 2nd gear (3.73's) and I spin around 5000 rpm till I get a lil smoke off the tires and I know for sure they are hot, and then I let off the brake and let it just roll out spinning till they spin no more.
thanx again
Chris
Do not do your burnout in the waterbox (if this is not what you meant Scott then ignore). Don't even pull through the water box with the DRs, with the tread all you will do is sling water into your wheel wells which will proceed to drip while you stage.
Solo.. I think he was more worried about his brakes, not thinking that this will give him better times...
Is it needed? no, but not a bad thing to have either.
Solo.. I think he was more worried about his brakes, not thinking that this will give him better times...
Is it needed? no, but not a bad thing to have either.
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