neondriver

i feel the same ive done absoutley everything myself except change the headgasket and replace the tranny which the dealership did under warrantee for free. doesnt the 2.4 have basically the same connections as a 2.0(coolant, electrical,...) this kit took me forever to get everything but its basically complete and ready to install except pipes and a fitting in the oil pan for a return. im not extremely mechanical and dont really know 100% about mechanics but ive done a shitload of research on turbo's and am confident i can get this all done. i would need major help doing a motor swap i have any tool necessary but the mounts would be the hardest for me i think. what block are you using?

Josiah

I am using a 96 chrysler sebring block with SRT4 water pump, oil pump, oil pan, wiseco 8.5:1 pistons and t2 rods, ported and polished head w/ three angle valve job w/ stainless steel valves and crane #14s, hahn 20g turbo....a waste at the low 6psi I am running till I install the megasquirt this weekend, as far as the engine swap itself...it was easier than turbocharging the car...just hard to do by yourself, but yeah, the wiring is the same virtually(pre 2002 block) and the cooling, I still use stock upper and a trimmed lower radiator hose meant for my original DOHC 2.0, if you ever go 2.4 let me know I'll help you out, might as well swap to a 5 speed tranny at the same time, I always suggest engine building first though if you plan to get serious with the turbo...my block is built for 500+ HP, though right now I am running just a little over 200, after all, this is my daily driver and I have to upgrade from my base running turbo setup slowly

neondriver

yah mine is a daily driver and i dont want anything crazy just something to have some fun. a mild built 2.4 turbo is what i would want, until i get another vehicle on the road i cant really start major work on my car.

Josiah

heh, my 2.0L timing belt broke and made me jump into the 3 day engine swap(8.5:1 compression on a car that does not yet have a turbo is not much fun, although the torque still shot up like 30ft lbs with just the 2.4 swap and I know I didnt lose any power ith all the other mods to the engine, it really woke up when turbocharged a few weeks later though

AlanSOHCtampa

Give me a call and I can assist.

-Alan
(813)416-8640

FLNeonRT

+1, Alan knows his shit. Hes built a couple 1st Gen. turbo set-ups. He can answer your routing questions and any others you may have.

neondriver

well, i ended up getting it painted first so i took a break on the turbo until i save the rest up for pipes/tuneing. tell me if all this sounds good

fuel
-venom pump with fpr by-passed and made for return
-stock fuel suply line for return
-chilfactory rrfpr
- 24lb mustang injectors w/ pigtail
-100psi fuel pressure gauge afer rrfpr
-steel braided line to connect valve on fuel rail to rrfpr
-mich hose to run from rrfpr to return line and, hose to connect return line to gas tank

i have the entire srt-4 turbo setup and am getting rid of my muffler to weld a srt rear section on. i also have an aobe, and srt-4 intake pipe which leaves the filter in the location where the battery is.
-just to check i run a line from my intake mani to rrfpr?, then put a line from the barb on turbo to wastegate and install a boost controller in-line on that line? then does the 2nd barb go to the boost gauge?

i only have 1 week of school then i have alot of free time to begin working on some things

Josiah

the line from the wastegate on the turbo needs a vacuum signal either from the barb on the turbo inlet or the intake manifold(your choice, this is the boost controller line) another line from the intake to the BOV that your using, another line from the intake to the boost gauge, and a final one from the intake to the CF RRFPR(some of these things can be run off the same signal line, but I always reccomend a seperate line for everything except maybe the boost gauge) hit me up too thogh if you need help on anything, been there done that and hate the RRFPR/AOBE setup...it works but its not my cp of tea, its why my fuel is now controlled with a MegaSquirt....belive me, its not much more in cost and its a hell of a lot better(the wideband and laptop drive the cost up though, but if your planning on a wideband anyway....a laptop thats good enough can be had for $120 shipped on ebay)

grindpunk16

if you can find a srt hot pipe use it! it will save you so much time

Josiah

only if your using an SRT4 intercooler, wouldnt help too much with mine, but my I/C piping is convoluted, I really need to redo it....may switch to an SRT I/C as well just for ease(and so I can put my fog lights back in)