Can I holla at some chain tech?
Joe: second picture, blue can on left.
Like ??? Was saying about the wax he uses, it goes on white/clear/opaque whatever you want to call it so you can see when its time to clean. I'll have to look into some of these other lines, seems like a consensus here on the type...dry wax lubes.
You guys all do the sprockets at the same time? I figure I might as well...whole kits are only around $200.
And yeah ???, after my o-rings started showing that little bit of wear it seemed like I was adjusting my chain every few weeks and it would show rust faster with the slightest humidity change.
Like ??? Was saying about the wax he uses, it goes on white/clear/opaque whatever you want to call it so you can see when its time to clean. I'll have to look into some of these other lines, seems like a consensus here on the type...dry wax lubes.
You guys all do the sprockets at the same time? I figure I might as well...whole kits are only around $200.
And yeah ???, after my o-rings started showing that little bit of wear it seemed like I was adjusting my chain every few weeks and it would show rust faster with the slightest humidity change.
__________________
2008 R1 | 2004 ///M3
2008 R1 | 2004 ///M3
I'm of the thought there is such a thing as over cleaning a chain, I suspect the bristles and solvents can't be good for the o rings. I just do the same thing as ??? and clean it with the lube. Get back from a ride, prop it up, spray it down, hold a rag on the chain to wipe off everything, and then re lube for good measure.
thank you. ill give this stuff a try.
i read this two posts.
Can I clean chain with brake cleaner? [Archive] - 600RR.net
and this....back when i was still a noob.
cleaning your chain [Archive] - Tampa Racing
Can I clean chain with brake cleaner? [Archive] - 600RR.net
and this....back when i was still a noob.
cleaning your chain [Archive] - Tampa Racing
someone posted this from 2/09 from this website - Cleaning a Motorcycle Chain - webBikeWorld
Further below is the entire response (from WD-40), but here is the meat of it:
"It is possible that if there is a special lubricant in the o-rings, WD-40 could act as a cleaner and remove that oil. The special lubricant would be replaced with WD-40. We are sure there are superior heavy-duty chain lubes on the market."
'nuff said. Thanks for all you do!"
"Thank you for contacting the WD-40 Company with regards to using WD-40 on o-rings. WD-40 is a multi-purpose light lubricating oil, which will displace water and moisture from the chain. The "WD" stands for water displacement and acts as a rust preventative on any metal surface. WD-40 will not dry out the rubber o-rings. We have found no visible effects on the surface of rubber and o-rings. Certain types of rubber will swell under prolonged immersion in WD-40 (this refers to long soaking and not just a spray).
WD-40 is also a cleaner, which will remove grime, dirt, tape, bumper stickers and oil. It is possible that if there is a special lubricant in the o-rings, WD-40 could act as a cleaner and remove that oil. The special lubricant would be replaced with WD-40
We are sure there are superior heavy-duty chain lubes on the market. There are several people who recommend using WD-40 on their chains. Perhaps some experimenting with WD-40, as a water remover and rust preventative followed by a heavier chain lube would fit your needs. The bottom line is WD-40 will not harm your o-rings, but it could remove a lubricant that was previously applied to the chain.
Thank you again for contacting the WD-40 Company. Please let us know if we may be of further assistance."
Further below is the entire response (from WD-40), but here is the meat of it:
"It is possible that if there is a special lubricant in the o-rings, WD-40 could act as a cleaner and remove that oil. The special lubricant would be replaced with WD-40. We are sure there are superior heavy-duty chain lubes on the market."
'nuff said. Thanks for all you do!"
"Thank you for contacting the WD-40 Company with regards to using WD-40 on o-rings. WD-40 is a multi-purpose light lubricating oil, which will displace water and moisture from the chain. The "WD" stands for water displacement and acts as a rust preventative on any metal surface. WD-40 will not dry out the rubber o-rings. We have found no visible effects on the surface of rubber and o-rings. Certain types of rubber will swell under prolonged immersion in WD-40 (this refers to long soaking and not just a spray).
WD-40 is also a cleaner, which will remove grime, dirt, tape, bumper stickers and oil. It is possible that if there is a special lubricant in the o-rings, WD-40 could act as a cleaner and remove that oil. The special lubricant would be replaced with WD-40
We are sure there are superior heavy-duty chain lubes on the market. There are several people who recommend using WD-40 on their chains. Perhaps some experimenting with WD-40, as a water remover and rust preventative followed by a heavier chain lube would fit your needs. The bottom line is WD-40 will not harm your o-rings, but it could remove a lubricant that was previously applied to the chain.
Thank you again for contacting the WD-40 Company. Please let us know if we may be of further assistance."
I got about 18K out of my DID ERV2 but I'm running a 525. I would assume a 520 would not last as long even with a 600cc. Go ahead and change the sprockets with the chain. They are usually not that expensive unless you have the Stealth sprocket on the rear.
I'm running a Renthal this time around. Made in Italy so it was kind of fitting.
I'm running a Renthal this time around. Made in Italy so it was kind of fitting.
__________________

Major props to Divine Sounds, Wheel Tec and Melilli Moto.

Major props to Divine Sounds, Wheel Tec and Melilli Moto.
Last edited by ZdaMan; Jan 31, 2011 at 08:21 PM.
You can run a 520 chain, but if its a commuter bike I would slap an oem size a 525 or so.
You dont need to spend big money on an expansive chain there all mostly the same. I like basic RK chains ive had good luck with them. VERY IMPORTANT make sure to buy a rivet on master link vs the clip on that fly off and cause serious damage.
Best to run steel sprockets vs the aluminum which will not last aslong.
The way to check chain tension, put the bike in first gear. Roll it back and from the buttom you should have 2-2.5" slack. I never liked to keep my chains tight, because a too tight of a chain will not allow the swingarm to fully swing.
To clean a chain I like to use kerosene (or wd 40) and a nylon brush. DO NOT DO NO try to clean the bike on a rear stand with the engine running. You will lose your fingers!
As far as lubricants, I like to clean the chain. Take for a spin around the block to heat the chain. Then I spray maxima wax all over to protect from corroding, then I take a oil squirt gun and fill it with 20/50 motor oil I use that to lube the chain every 2nd ride.
When I use to race my aluminum sprockets end of the season looked like new.
You dont need to spend big money on an expansive chain there all mostly the same. I like basic RK chains ive had good luck with them. VERY IMPORTANT make sure to buy a rivet on master link vs the clip on that fly off and cause serious damage.
Best to run steel sprockets vs the aluminum which will not last aslong.
The way to check chain tension, put the bike in first gear. Roll it back and from the buttom you should have 2-2.5" slack. I never liked to keep my chains tight, because a too tight of a chain will not allow the swingarm to fully swing.
To clean a chain I like to use kerosene (or wd 40) and a nylon brush. DO NOT DO NO try to clean the bike on a rear stand with the engine running. You will lose your fingers!
As far as lubricants, I like to clean the chain. Take for a spin around the block to heat the chain. Then I spray maxima wax all over to protect from corroding, then I take a oil squirt gun and fill it with 20/50 motor oil I use that to lube the chain every 2nd ride.
When I use to race my aluminum sprockets end of the season looked like new.
Joe I checked out those links and it's just like many of the threads containing mostly the same info I read over and over when I first got my bike.
I do really like the idea of maintenance parties haha. I can host them...my garage can hold aaaaaaaaaaaaaa lot of bikes haha...but I've only got 2 rear stands. And I've got a grill. And a kegerator full of Yuengling. (Seriously I don't mind hosting something sweet like that haha)
Currently I have a steel front and aluminum rear. It's the dreaded Vortex but it still looks brand new so I don't know what everyone's gripe is about with the aluminum Vortex rear sprockets. Save your time, I've seen pics and heard the horror stories, I'm just saying mine looks brand new still. I plan on going steel in the rear this time but I'm noticing it's hard to find a Yamaha 50t steel sprocket, looks like I'm going to have to go with Driven.
I saw the fancy Stealth sprocket which seems pretty cool but they don't list tooth counts on motomummy's website. But I think a steel plane jane spocket will more than suffice if I'm going to be replacing it every year-ish, not that the stealth is that much more dollars.
https://www.motomummy.com/store/prod...cat=601&page=1
Guess I'll get that since I can get it in the tooth configuration I want. Should I go with another DID or the RK Gold chain? The chain that was on the bike when I got it was a DID as well so that's all I've got experience with. I guess I could try the RK to add another notch in my belt unless you guys have a reason not to?
And also, I'm kinda liking the idea of merely wiping down the chain with some lube and then adding some fresh lube. And maybe every couple months doing a full strip down like I've been doing every week. I just may have to give this a try.
And most importantly, who's got a chain braker/riveter dealy?
I do really like the idea of maintenance parties haha. I can host them...my garage can hold aaaaaaaaaaaaaa lot of bikes haha...but I've only got 2 rear stands. And I've got a grill. And a kegerator full of Yuengling. (Seriously I don't mind hosting something sweet like that haha)
Currently I have a steel front and aluminum rear. It's the dreaded Vortex but it still looks brand new so I don't know what everyone's gripe is about with the aluminum Vortex rear sprockets. Save your time, I've seen pics and heard the horror stories, I'm just saying mine looks brand new still. I plan on going steel in the rear this time but I'm noticing it's hard to find a Yamaha 50t steel sprocket, looks like I'm going to have to go with Driven.
I saw the fancy Stealth sprocket which seems pretty cool but they don't list tooth counts on motomummy's website. But I think a steel plane jane spocket will more than suffice if I'm going to be replacing it every year-ish, not that the stealth is that much more dollars.
https://www.motomummy.com/store/prod...cat=601&page=1
Guess I'll get that since I can get it in the tooth configuration I want. Should I go with another DID or the RK Gold chain? The chain that was on the bike when I got it was a DID as well so that's all I've got experience with. I guess I could try the RK to add another notch in my belt unless you guys have a reason not to?
And also, I'm kinda liking the idea of merely wiping down the chain with some lube and then adding some fresh lube. And maybe every couple months doing a full strip down like I've been doing every week. I just may have to give this a try.
And most importantly, who's got a chain braker/riveter dealy?
__________________
2008 R1 | 2004 ///M3
2008 R1 | 2004 ///M3
The only downside I've had with the vortex is when they do go they start snapping teeth quickly. When my first one started snapping off teeth I ordered a new one, by the time it got here (had to mail order) I had 8 teeth left on a 45 tooth sprocket. It was nearly 20k miles when it happened though. People seem to swear by the new super sprockets or something like that. I think Ricksta has one on his R1




