Welp, after fixing my o2 sensor, and resetting the ECU-- my custom build CAD generated cold air intake DOES NOT throw CEL's.

I've read about cold air intakes throwing cel's, and mine does not. So does that mean I'm not running lean?

 

sometimes it doesnt immediately throw a CEL. the only way to check if your running lean if you have a wideband, not CELs.

 

ah yes so a wideband is the next step then--- well at least I'm one up, no immediate CEL

 

^agreed... it may not throw a cell for a couple hundred miles, then all of a sudden boom goes ur engine

 

well that sucks... so should i not drive this car until i get a wideband???

 

stay out of boost

 

-the diameter of the pipe is 65mm

-i've read that larger than that will make you go lean, smaller is rich, and exact is stoich.

I dont' have any a/f readings, but the car runs great. I've noticed that those running lean mention idle problems as well--- none for me.

Also, the design of my cai emulates air flow like the OEM --- it's almost exact

the next few driving cycles will be interesting--- they say its either immediately (car wont' run right, idle funny, might not run at all) the CEL gets thrown, or after a few cycles.


I'm not going to get my hopes up, but i think i might have a good cai for stock mods... However, this was a pricey cai-- perrin maf pipe-turbo inlet, and an ebay CAI, with steel mesh filter and plenum. Also, we made some special cuts to keep the air flow right, and to utilize bends to maximize flow speed. It's about $400 after all costs-- but my inlet and maf pipe were already installed when i bought the car---sooo my only cost was the ebay pipe & filter.

My cai and the AEM are similar as well, but mine using a slightly less radial bend going into the fender. I think this is the reason why our air is smooth and not throwing codes--- i've read it's the sharp bends that really screw it up and cause turbulence.

I know these aren't hondas and i took that into the design from scratch... If the main problem of the maf is diameter and turbulance causing lean conditions and CEL's--- my cai does not do that. 65 mm diameter ensures proper air volumes while keeping turbulance at bay by using proper curves and bends to adhere with the spin action of the turbo---

Lots went into it, and it only took a short time to develop. Time will tell--- i really should use a wideband and try tweaking the setup to see if i can't manipulate the afr to my liking.

 

its not that it will neccessarily throw a code. however because its "custom", the design hasnt been flow tested. the problem you will have is with air flow. If air becomes turbulent inside the intake, the MAF sensor wont get a correct reading and you will most likely run lean.

 

yes-- i'm driving to orlando tomorrow this should be fun. i hope no more whoops like the hoses tonight.

time to run the gauntlet. i've checked everything over, and re-analyzed all of the piping again, applied about 1.5 hours of physics formulas based on windflow following the standards here's my formula for one segment of psi-- but you have to find air flow rates and with out a "flow meter" i could only use extensive formulas to come "close".. this close was plenty though considering the tolerances we are talking about. I found a cfm output map, as well as particle viscosity for standard air at 80 and 90 degrees farenheit.



The easy part is pie and the diameter 65--lmao

13.5=470(8*.0000178*3)/3.14(65)4th power to find the flow of the air through the duct, for each straight away--- then converting the area of the radius in the bends as well and figuring that in as well. I couldn't get it perfect but in the straight bends-- the curves were difficult but the air straightens itself back out due to pipe wall turbulence and then returns to a standard straight flow. Along with a plenum, the distance the maf is from the bend is more than 33% than what is needed to straighten the air back out. After it goes through the maf straight away, the bend in the perrin maf pipe is angled in such a fashion with the maf pipe straight away/angle that it starts a spin in a clockwise cycle in coherence with the turbo. By starting the air to "swirl" after the maf, you can cut down on lag tons. The pipe is 65mm and maintains integrity within 1mm tolerance through out connections, plenum, etc.

But i didn't want to type all of that, so i juts called it custom cai.

I don't have a wind machine, but you can do it all with formulas and come "close"... i'd like to see how "Close" i am when i hook up to the tune i bet the tech will be like wtf hahah


There is no reason i can't do it if another human did.

here's where i got some help
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1608886

and my formula---
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poiseuille%27s_law

you could route the air in any manor you want just stick to the above formulas and do everything twice, i'm considering adding on with a second pipe to the other fog / fender bay. it's not easy but it works-- No cel-- no more hesitation-- sounds like I have a lear jet taking off in my hood--- i love it.

it's like tornado technology in a way, see this it illustrates how bending air around curves can increase the speed and sound-->




to understand how to start the funnel effect, you must understand that a vortex is created by turbulence. please read this as well

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mesocyclone


it's like, mother nature man.

 

I never believe that an intake with the same maf diameter will make the car run crazy lean.

the fact is the air volume has to go pass the maf and some of the air has to be calculated. the car would not run if it would not true, but still could change the readings to a certain degree, but part of that is take up by long term fuel trims.

a cel will only come on if you peg the learned fuel trims to max i believe around 10-15% difference.

if the car was already tuned with proper a/f ratios that are leaner than stock and close to the limit then you put an intake on you could throw the car into some super lean issues.


With all that said. Im still a fan of the STOCK INTAKE. they are good for 300+whp and plenty for the stock turbo. the only time i would go change my intake would be if i went to a 70mm