Possible Blown Engine: Need Urgent Help
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
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My car did the same thing. Died at a light and was making the knocking noise. It was too late to save the motor. The rod had messed up the cylinder wall too much to be sleeved/repaired. I replaced it with a 2.5L
I hate to say it man but I think you're going to have to replace it.
I hate to say it man but I think you're going to have to replace it.
Thread Starter
frankenSTIen
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
When the oil light comes on it's usually too late; you've already done damage. Our cars are notorious for blowing through oil and it's a good idea to check it every time you fill up. What kind of oil were you using?
As far as fixing it's going to be a major engine out type of thing. Depending on the damage you may have to start shopping for a new short block. In that case, an STi 2.5L would be a good bet, but then you're going to need to open the wallet for that. Good luck, it will work out in the end!
As far as fixing it's going to be a major engine out type of thing. Depending on the damage you may have to start shopping for a new short block. In that case, an STi 2.5L would be a good bet, but then you're going to need to open the wallet for that. Good luck, it will work out in the end!
"Our cars are notorious for blowing through oil and it's a good idea to check it every time you fill up. What kind of oil were you using?"
Exactly subaru engines are NOT made for synthetic oil and they in most cases will use synthetic oil....Use either conventional or....which I'm now currently trying german castrol syntec. Which supposedly is a little thicker and supposedly suby's don't burn it or at least not much.
Exactly subaru engines are NOT made for synthetic oil and they in most cases will use synthetic oil....Use either conventional or....which I'm now currently trying german castrol syntec. Which supposedly is a little thicker and supposedly suby's don't burn it or at least not much.
My car did the same thing. Died at a light and was making the knocking noise. It was too late to save the motor. The rod had messed up the cylinder wall too much to be sleeved/repaired. I replaced it with a 2.5L
I hate to say it man but I think you're going to have to replace it.
I hate to say it man but I think you're going to have to replace it.
~Kano~
[God Bless You]
__________________
Bugeye Mafioso #149 from www.ClubWRX.net
Subaru, friends included:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeoDkny6BBg
Bugeye Mafioso #149 from www.ClubWRX.net
Subaru, friends included:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeoDkny6BBg
Skunk.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,616
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not trying to be mean man, but you really should trade/sell the WRX for whatever you can get out of it and get into a stock honda and DO NOT mod it. You pretty much just raped and murdered a good WRX motor that under normal conditions should've went another 200k.
look forward to ATLEAST $1000 worth of work and it'll probably be much higher.
look forward to ATLEAST $1000 worth of work and it'll probably be much higher.
__________________
The thing I hate about an argument is that it always interrupts a discussion. -G. K. Chesterton
The thing I hate about an argument is that it always interrupts a discussion. -G. K. Chesterton
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
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yeah, spun bearing= new block
i spun like 3 bearings on my prelude a few years ago and it wasnt a cheap fix.a brand new H22 block cost me $2600 just for the bottom end. WRXBDBY just had his done last year too,same problem spun bearing. so he got the 2.5block. big difference.
i spun like 3 bearings on my prelude a few years ago and it wasnt a cheap fix.a brand new H22 block cost me $2600 just for the bottom end. WRXBDBY just had his done last year too,same problem spun bearing. so he got the 2.5block. big difference.
__________________
99 Prelude SH-slow but sooo SEXY
04 WRX-300WHP silver bullet
09 Si SEDAN UNDER CONSTRUCTION
99 Prelude SH-slow but sooo SEXY
04 WRX-300WHP silver bullet
09 Si SEDAN UNDER CONSTRUCTION
mech engineer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,438
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wow, 75w90? dude. Who told you to put that in??? If im not mistaken, but isnt that the type of oil that goes into a tranny?
For the oil experts, wouldnt the 75w mean that it would be tested at a cold starting temp of like 45 degrees? unlike a 5w or 10w would be around -20 to -30? so, isnt he basically putting in an oil that is just to high in starting temp and too thick? He would want a lower viscosity number (like 30 or 40, instead of 90) to help everything in the motor function with less friction with movable motor parts? I havent really studied oil enough to exactly know what it will do, but, what it sounds like is that when the temps got into the 40's around here, he cold-started the car and the oil was way to thick which had cause the motor to start and seize up.
All in all man, you need to start saving up for a new one. If you plan on sti motor, be ready to shell out some money. Call around and start getting prices with install. Good luck man. Next time, just look at the owners manual and it will tell you which oil to use.
For the oil experts, wouldnt the 75w mean that it would be tested at a cold starting temp of like 45 degrees? unlike a 5w or 10w would be around -20 to -30? so, isnt he basically putting in an oil that is just to high in starting temp and too thick? He would want a lower viscosity number (like 30 or 40, instead of 90) to help everything in the motor function with less friction with movable motor parts? I havent really studied oil enough to exactly know what it will do, but, what it sounds like is that when the temps got into the 40's around here, he cold-started the car and the oil was way to thick which had cause the motor to start and seize up.
All in all man, you need to start saving up for a new one. If you plan on sti motor, be ready to shell out some money. Call around and start getting prices with install. Good luck man. Next time, just look at the owners manual and it will tell you which oil to use.
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-Matt
-Matt
Thread Starter
frankenSTIen
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Redline 75w90NS Transmission Oil
...I was doing research and what I found out is that 75w90NS is the best...It is even mentioned a couple of times in ClubWRX.net......maybe I should've researched my engine first......
not trying to be mean man, but you really should trade/sell the WRX for whatever you can get out of it and get into a stock honda and DO NOT mod it. You pretty much just raped and murdered a good WRX motor that under normal conditions should've went another 200k.
look forward to ATLEAST $1000 worth of work and it'll probably be much higher.
look forward to ATLEAST $1000 worth of work and it'll probably be much higher.
yeah, spun bearing= new block
i spun like 3 bearings on my prelude a few years ago and it wasnt a cheap fix.a brand new H22 block cost me $2600 just for the bottom end. WRXBDBY just had his done last year too,same problem spun bearing. so he got the 2.5block. big difference.
i spun like 3 bearings on my prelude a few years ago and it wasnt a cheap fix.a brand new H22 block cost me $2600 just for the bottom end. WRXBDBY just had his done last year too,same problem spun bearing. so he got the 2.5block. big difference.
wow, 75w90? dude. Who told you to put that in??? If im not mistaken, but isnt that the type of oil that goes into a tranny?
For the oil experts, wouldnt the 75w mean that it would be tested at a cold starting temp of like 45 degrees? unlike a 5w or 10w would be around -20 to -30? so, isnt he basically putting in an oil that is just to high in starting temp and too thick? He would want a lower viscosity number (like 30 or 40, instead of 90) to help everything in the motor function with less friction with movable motor parts? I havent really studied oil enough to exactly know what it will do, but, what it sounds like is that when the temps got into the 40's around here, he cold-started the car and the oil was way to thick which had cause the motor to start and seize up.
All in all man, you need to start saving up for a new one. If you plan on sti motor, be ready to shell out some money. Call around and start getting prices with install. Good luck man. Next time, just look at the owners manual and it will tell you which oil to use.
For the oil experts, wouldnt the 75w mean that it would be tested at a cold starting temp of like 45 degrees? unlike a 5w or 10w would be around -20 to -30? so, isnt he basically putting in an oil that is just to high in starting temp and too thick? He would want a lower viscosity number (like 30 or 40, instead of 90) to help everything in the motor function with less friction with movable motor parts? I havent really studied oil enough to exactly know what it will do, but, what it sounds like is that when the temps got into the 40's around here, he cold-started the car and the oil was way to thick which had cause the motor to start and seize up.
All in all man, you need to start saving up for a new one. If you plan on sti motor, be ready to shell out some money. Call around and start getting prices with install. Good luck man. Next time, just look at the owners manual and it will tell you which oil to use.
~Kano~
[God Bless You]
__________________
Bugeye Mafioso #149 from www.ClubWRX.net
Subaru, friends included:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeoDkny6BBg
Bugeye Mafioso #149 from www.ClubWRX.net
Subaru, friends included:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeoDkny6BBg
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
with the way your goin man you better buy a bicycle bc honestly i dont think you have to maturity to deal with a high maintenance car.. i can get a sweet hook up on sum shocks and pegs..lol hey maybe a baseball card to make a cool sound for you..it can be like your wannabe bov..
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If you have been mislead or fraudulently persuaded into buying a timeshare in the last 2 years.. I CAN HELP!!
If you have been mislead or fraudulently persuaded into buying a timeshare in the last 2 years.. I CAN HELP!!
