No real need to go ARP mains unless your doing BIG things. 54C bolts are actually 30% stronger than redtop bolts, they are a tad beefier.

There is much more involved if you were to go with ARP main STUDS Vs oem BOLTS. Studs can alter the SR crank journal line bore, therefore you should consider align honing your bottom end......

If you look at how a main stud engages and tightens vs. a bolt the difference is readily apparent. Bolts tighten via course threads into the block, you have torque on the bolt head as well as the threads while tightening. Studs thread into the block, then when tightening, threads in the block are completely engaged, the only friction is the small surface area under the head. You are pulling machined metal directly into machined metal via fine thread (more threads per inch). Just no way to compare the two.

Studs use a higher torque at assembly, therefore, would distort the main caps differently than the factory bolts would. Running an align hone thru the mains would assure they were round and straight with each other. Just one more step in assuring everything runs true, and that you get the correct crush on the bearings, and equal oil clearences across the mains.

That's why its recommended that you indeed get your crank journals/caps (bottom end) align honed if you go with studs. If you skip machining/line hone on studs and you go tighten up your mains and your crank doesn't spin or is difficult you'll know exactly why...

I actually think Mazworx has fixed the 1 or 2 studs that hit the upper oil pan. They shortened a stud or two so you would not have to chop and weld your pan...

A 6 week Maz backorder = bummer..
wait or go 54C..