So ive been searchin seems theres no definite answer if there reusable, arp main stud kit hits the oil pan,and mazworxs is out of them for 6wks,discuss other possibility's.

 

debateable.. by everyone. i reused mine on a high horsepower application. no problem

 

re-using mine. john re-used his

 

now the tricky part tq to fsm, or by another number

 

Mains, FSM, the fsm states a specific torque, or the angle method for rod bolts, but the mains states only using the torque and angle specs, and I wouldnt try to get away with anything else.

 

then i need to borrow a graduator....

 

Please don't skimp out on new main bolts.. Geeze, their like $25 or so from courtesy.. I don't care if you miced them up and down, don't re-use... your re-used bolts could possibly be very close to shear point. way to sketchy for me.. Were also talking about bolts that are close to 20 years old and have had there fair share of heat cycles... only 1 failed bolt can lead to serious issues and huge set-backs.

Head & main bolts are torque to yeild bolts (TTY) / angle torque or stretch bolts . These are not your conventional bolts you use on your suspension or something...
I can't believe some of you guys have actually re-used yours.. But hey, it's at your own risk..


School time.. The 4 main load phases a bolt encounters when tourqued; the elastic phase, the plastic phase, the yield point and the shear point. In the elastic phase a bolt will stretch under tension but return to its original length when the load is removed. As we continue to apply load the bolt reaches the plastic phase from which it can no longer recover to its original length and is now permanently stretched, The point that separates the elastic phase from the plastic phase is called the yield point of the bolt. Finally, if we continue to apply load the shear point is reached and the bolt material wastes and breaks.

Unlike a conventional bolt, TTY bolts are tightened beyond their elastic range past their yield point from which the bolt material can recover to its original length, and into the plastic phase of the bolt material. The bolt is permanently stretched and for this reason should not be reused. The reliability of these bolts once stretched is greatly reduced. If they are reused, they are permanently stretched further a second or third time. It is also for this reason why you should NEVER retorque a torque to yield bolt.

Long story short in my book,
re-use mains = NO

Get some 54C main bolts. Part # 12293-54C00 Quanity 5. so buy 2 packs at a total of 10 mains and about 25 bucks.. Then Study EM-69 on the FSM. I mark my mains so I don't forget which bolt I just torqued if I happened to get side tracked. While looking at the front of the motor, mark the bottom face of the bolt with some white out before you use the angle gauge/graduator. When your all done they should all be pointing around 2 o'clock.

The cost of a new set of TTY bolts is well justified when compared to the cost of having to repair an engine for the second time because of insufficient clamping load due to bolt fatigue.

 

^ ok changed my mine buying arp's , so im guessing an oil pan will be needed since the arps hit the oem sr oil plate?

 

No real need to go ARP mains unless your doing BIG things. 54C bolts are actually 30% stronger than redtop bolts, they are a tad beefier.

There is much more involved if you were to go with ARP main STUDS Vs oem BOLTS. Studs can alter the SR crank journal line bore, therefore you should consider align honing your bottom end......

If you look at how a main stud engages and tightens vs. a bolt the difference is readily apparent. Bolts tighten via course threads into the block, you have torque on the bolt head as well as the threads while tightening. Studs thread into the block, then when tightening, threads in the block are completely engaged, the only friction is the small surface area under the head. You are pulling machined metal directly into machined metal via fine thread (more threads per inch). Just no way to compare the two.

Studs use a higher torque at assembly, therefore, would distort the main caps differently than the factory bolts would. Running an align hone thru the mains would assure they were round and straight with each other. Just one more step in assuring everything runs true, and that you get the correct crush on the bearings, and equal oil clearences across the mains.

That's why its recommended that you indeed get your crank journals/caps (bottom end) align honed if you go with studs. If you skip machining/line hone on studs and you go tighten up your mains and your crank doesn't spin or is difficult you'll know exactly why...

I actually think Mazworx has fixed the 1 or 2 studs that hit the upper oil pan. They shortened a stud or two so you would not have to chop and weld your pan...

A 6 week Maz backorder = bummer..
wait or go 54C..

 

if you get arp's ,mazworxs has some that require no machining to the lower oil pan